Preemie Sized Super Variation Beanie Pattern (featuring The Bunny Hat)

This is a preemie sized (11-12" circumference) hat that I designed after The Preemie Project (www.thepreemieproject.com) put out a call for Easter and spring themed hats.  I found other patterns but the ears were made in the round which made them quite heavy, not really appropriate for such tiny babies.  This one is simple and easy with no frills.  Make them up in every pastel color imaginable and donate away to your local NICU!!!

I am also including several variations that use the basic beanie hat the bunny ears are attached to.  I bore easily and these variations keep me exciting to be making these hats.  If I'm going to reach my goal of donating 100 hats this year I have to keep it interesting!!!

As with all my free patterns you are welcome to use your finished items for any purpose you wish.  Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern and take your own photos, mine aren't that great anyways!

Materials:  Size H crochet hook (G for smaller preemies, I for larger preemies), a little over 1 oz of light worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft), tapestry needle for weaving ends and attaching the ears.

Notes: Pattern is written in standard US crochet terms.  Beginning chains do not count as stitches throughout the pattern.

Basic Hat

Ch 2 does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern

Round 1: Start with a Magic Circle, ch 2 and work 10 dc in the magic circle, pull tight and sl st to 1st dc. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 2, work 2 dc in each st around, joing with a sl st to the 1st dc. (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 2, work 1 dc in the same st as the ch 2, *work 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the following st*, repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with a sl st. (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 2, work 2 dc in the same st as the ch 2, *work 1 dc in the next 5 st, work 2 dc in the following st*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the first dc. (35 dc)

Rounds 5-8: Ch 2, work 1 dc in each st around joining with a sl st to the first dc. (35 dc)

Round 9: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st around joinging with a sl st to the first sc. (35 sc) Fasten off and weave in the end.

Ears (make 2)

The ch at the beginning of each row does not count as a st. Crocheting tightly will give you and ear that is stiff enough for you to mold the shape a bit which gives you some versatility with the finished look.

Row 1: Ch 5, turn and sc in 2nd ch and each ch accross. (4 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st accross. (4 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc, sc sc, 2 sc. (6 sc)

Row 4-6: Ch 1, sc in each st accross. (6 sc)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc, sc, sc2tog. (2 sctog and 2 sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st. (4 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog twice (2 sc2tog)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog (1 sc2tog)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc. (1 sc)

Sc in down the side of the ear, sl st accross the bottom (the starting ch), and sc up the other side of the ear joining at the top of the ear with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Using a 12" length of yarn and the tapestry needle sew each ear to the top of the hat through the sl st on the bottom of the ears. I position on the top just outside of round 2 of the hat but place wherever you think is visually appealing.

Other Variations: This basic hat pattern is super versatile and is my go-to pattern for making charity hats.

Pom-pom hat: Add a pom of any size to the top, I especially like to do a two color pom and use the contrast color as the sc edging (row 9)

Striped Hat: switch yarn colors every other row. The example in the photo is worked in the colors of our local college (go Hawkeyes!)

Thick Thin Stripes: Use two colors of yarn, use one color for two rows then the other for one, keep switching back and forth in this manner.

Football Hat: Work rows 2 and 8 in a contrast color, Use a long piece of the contrast color and a tapestry needle to embroider laces onto the finished hat.

Shelly Edged: On row 9 work a sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc pattern around joining with a sl st to the first sc.

Embellished Hat: Work hat or shelly edged version and add an applique or other embellishment such as a shabby flower.

Colin's Snakes and Snails Preemie Hat

This preemie pattern is designed with some special touches just for the boys!  A modified grit stitch section gives the hat some much needed texture, while a reverse single crochet edging gives a little rope like detailing to the bottom.  I have named this hat for my nephew Colin, who along with his twin sister, Shelby, was born quite premature.  He is now an almost 6 year old full of life and vigor, for that my family is eternally grateful!

This pattern is free for your personal, charitable, or small home business use but please do not sell or reproduce this pattern in any way.  Any photos on my blog are the property of me, or used with permission, as such they are copyrighted and you may NOT use them without written permission.

Materials: H hook, Caron Simply Soft yarn or similar light worsted weight yarn (about 1 oz), tapestry needed (for weaving in ends). 

Notes: Pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch on the hdc rows. The finished hat has a circumference of 11.5"-12", use a G hook if making for a smaller preemie or an I hook for a larger preemie.

Instructions:

Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 1, *work 1 sc and 1 dc in next st, skip next st*. Continue from * to * around hat joining with a sl st to the beginning ch 1.

Round 6-11: Turn piece, ch 1, work dc in same st as ch 1. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in each sc of the prior round skipping the last sc of the round. Join to beginning ch with a sl st.

Round 12: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), work 1 hdc in each st around joining to the first hdc.

Round 13: Ch 1, reverse sc around hat joining with a sl st to the starting ch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ben's Button Flap Preemie Hat

Photo used with permission of Teri Diamond of Diamond Crochet

This versatile preemie sized hat is named for the son of one of my favorite photographers.  He and his twin sister were both born prematurely but have grown to be happy healthy kiddos!  This had measures about 10.5" around perfect for a small preemie.  To make for a larger preemie or a newborn simply increase your hook size up to an I.

Materials Needed:
Size H crochet hook (5.0 mm), about 1 oz of soft light worsted weight yarn (I like to use Caron Simply Soft), tapestry needle, scissors, sewing thread, sewing needle, and a button (anywhere from 1/2" to 1" in size)

Notes: This pattern uses US crochet terms.  

This pattern is free for use however you wish but please do not sell or reproduce the actual pattern itself and please use your own photos as all photos in this pattern are the property of Crafty Kate Going Crazy or Diamond Crochet.

copyright Teri Diamond

Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc) See the photos below to see how to make a magic circle. There are many great tutorials out there if you need further help on making a magic circle.

create a circle by putting end of yarn under the rest of the yarn as shown

Use your hook to pull a loop through and do a sl st

Make 8 hdc around the magic circle

Pull on the loose end of the thread that is under the circle

Once the circle is tight with no hole in the middle join to the first hdc with a sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc) I work these over the loose tail from the magic circle just so I have less weaving in to do later!

Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)

Rounds 5-8: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (32 hdc)

Round 9: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around and join to first hdc with a sl st.

Begin Flap: Ch 13. Turn and hdc in 2nd ch from the hook. Work 1 hdc in each ch. These hdc will be round 10 of the flap so simply continue with round 10.

copyright Teri Diamond

copyright Teri Diamond

Round 10: Work 1 hdc in each st around joining to 1st hdc with a sl st (do not work any more st on the flap this round)

Round 11: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around continuing up the flap to the end of the flap. Ch 1 and turn. Work back down the flap with a sl st in each stich. Join to 1st hdc of the round with a sl st.

Round 12: Ch 1, sc around joining to first sc with a sl st. Finish off and weave in ends.

Lay flap flat and sew on button through the flap and hat securing well. This will hold the flap in place and attach the button in one step.

Have fun making this and choosing your buttons!!!  It's amazing how versatile this hat can be with your color choice and button choice.  My favorite?  Homemade wood buttons made from a HUGE ash tree branch that landed on my roof during a storm last summer.  Lemons into lemonade!

Butterfly Kisses Preemie Hat

This hat is worked using an H hook and a small amount of Caron Simply Soft Yarn.  The finished circumference is about 10" so you can adjust to a smaller or larger size by using a different sized hook or a lighter or heavier weight yarn.  Add any adornment that you wish, I chose a fabric and bead applique.  Whatever you choose make sure that you secure it well for safety reasons.

Note: This pattern is in done in American crochet terms.

Begin with a magic circle or chain 4 and join with a sl st to make a ring.  
 
Round 1: ch 1, work 8 hdc into your magic circle or starting ring.  Join with a sl st to your 1st hdc. Ch 1.  (8 hdc)
Round 2: work 2 hdc in each st around joining with a sl st to the 1st hdc. Ch 1.  (16 hdc) 
Round 3: work 1 hdc in the same st as the sl st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * to end of round joining with a sl st to the first hdc.  Ch 1.  (24 hdc) 
Round 4: work 1 hdc in the same st as the sl st and in the next st.  *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next 2 st.*  Repeat from * to * to end of the round joining to the first hdc with a sl st.  (32 hdc)
Round 5-8: Ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Work one dc in same st as ch 3.  2 dc in next st, skip 2dc.  *2 dc in next 2 st, skip 2 st.*  Repeat from * to * to end of the round joining with a sl st to top of the ch 3.  (32 dc)
Round 9-10: Ch 1.  Work 1 sc in each st around joining with sl st to the ch 1.  Finish off at the end of round 10.  

Weave in loose ends and attach adornment of your choice.

This pattern is free to use however you choose to make finished items.  However you may not reproduce and sell the actual pattern itself.  If you wish to link to the pattern you may but please use a link and do not copy and paste to any other site.

Pattern inspired by the Abbey Hat and altered with permission of Diamond Crochet.  Please check her wonderful patterns and finished items at www.facebook.com/Diamond Crochet.  You can find the Abbey Hat in preemie size here.

This pattern is untested so please let me know if you find any errors!!!!

Abbreviations used:
sl st - slip stitchch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
st - stitch

Cotton Candy Baby Hat -Free Crochet Pattern

sizes 0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months)

Materials: K hook, bulky yarn, needle for weaving in ends

Notes: All terms are US crochet terms, pattern begins with a magic circle but you can substitute a ch 4 connected into a ring with a slip stitch.

Abbreviations: ch-chain, dc-double crochet, sl st-slip stitch, sp-space, sc-single crochet

Round 1: Magic circle, ch 3, 8 (9,10) dc for total of 9 (10,11) dc (starting ch counts as first dc), sl st to top loop of ch 3.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in same space as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, connect with sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * to end of round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, *dc in next 2 dc, dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 5: ch 3, dc in next st and in each stitch to the end of the round, connect to the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 6: repeat row 5 (for size 6-12 months repeat one more time)

Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each dc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the top of the first sc.

Round 8: ch 1, sc in each sc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 9: ch 1, work the following stitch pattern around the hat: *sc,dc,dc,sc* repeat. When you reach the end of the round connect with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Weave in ends.

You can use as is or dress it up with a flower or bow. 

Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set Free Crochet Pattern

I've debated back and forth on releasing this pattern on my blog for free or as a paid pattern on Etsy. In honor of the big Mommy & Baby giveaway I decided to go ahead and do it for free because every baby deserves to have extra special newborn pictures!!! Please see the terms of use tab on the blog for information on how this pattern may and may not be used. 

Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set
By Kate Knapp @ Crafty Kate Going Crazy

Materials Needed:
Worsted weight yarn in 2 shades of green (I used one skein Bernat Satin dark green and one skein Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in a medium green.

Sizes H & K crochet hook Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
Sc – single crochet
Dc- double crochet
Sc2tog- single crochet decrease
Sl St- slip stitch Ch- chain

Stitch Explanations: Sc2tog- insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through loop, yo, pull through the 3 loops on the hook.

Notes:
This pattern is written in US Crochet Terms.
 
The shell is worked with two strands of yarn held together.

Both items begin with a magic circle, there are many tutorials on this online.

Instructions are for a newborn size, you can up the sizing to a 3 months size by going up one hook size for the hat and shell.

Both pieces are worked in the round, starting chains do not count as stitches and you do not turn after the chain.

Hat Instructions:

Round 1: using the lighter green and the size H hook create a magic circle, ch 2, 10 dc. Sl st in 1st dc. (chains do not count as stitches in this pattern)

Round 2: ch 2, do 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)

Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 6-9: ch 2, 1 dc in each stitch, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 10: change to the darker green and ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Turtle Shell Instructions:

Round 1: Start with a magic circle using two strands and the K hook (one of each green which will create a mottled shell look). Ch 2, work 8 dc in the magic circle.

Round 2: ch 2, work 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)

Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 6: ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st.

Round 7: Using one strand of the light color ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now we will make the patches on the shell using just the one strand of the lighter green and the H hook. Make a total of 5 patches.

Foundation and Row 1: ch 2, work one sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (1 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the sc. (2 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in each sc. (4 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, one sc in each of the next two stitches, work 2 sc in the last stitch. (6 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, work one sc across until the last stitch, work 2 sc in the last stitch. (8 sc)

Rows 6 & 7: ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each stitch. (8 sc)

Row 8 & 9: ch 1, turn, work a sc2tog, sc in each stitch across except the last 2 stitches, sc2tog. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (you will have 6 stitches in row 8 and 4 stitches in row 9).

Sew on using random placement and rotating the patches on the shell to achieve a more natural look.

Angel Soft Baby Hat - Free Crochet Pattern

Long past time for a new pattern!  Today I am posting up my Angel Soft Baby Hat.  Perfect as a photo prop because it is designed to have interchangeable decorations that insert into the designed spaces between stitches. 

Angel Soft Baby Hat (with interchangeable adornment ideas)

Sizes 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12 – 18 months

Materials Needed:

Worsted weight soft boucle yarn (I used a soft natural color of Plymouth Yarn Boucle Merino Superwash)

Hook Size H (5.0) for 0-3 months, I (5.50) for 3-6 months, J for 6-12 months, K for 12-18 months

Tapestry Needle

For adornments (optional): yarn scraps, 2” alligator clips, 3 ft. of ½” wide ribbon, premade hair bows or flowers, craft glue

Small alligator style hair clips 

Abbreviations:

Dc – double crochet

Sp- space

St- stitch

Sl st- slip stitch

Ch- chain

Notes

Pattern is written with US crochet terms.

Hat is begun with a magic circle, if you don’t know how to make this I highly recommend looking up one of the many good tutorials on it or you may substitute a ch 4, connecting with a sl st to the first ch to make a ring.

Gauge: gauge sample worked with a size I hook, 5 dc = 2 inches wide and ¾ inch tall, crochet a sample using your yarn and a size I hook to determine if you are crocheting with the tension needed for this project, if not you may need to adjust up or down a hook size to achieve proper sizing.  This hat does have a LOT of stretch so it's very forgiving size wise.

Instructions

Hat

Begin with a magic circle (see notes section).

Round 1: Ch 3 in magic circle (counts as first dc), work 8 more dc in the circle, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work  2 dc in each dc around, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, ch 1, skip next st, *work 2 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, repeat  from * to * to the end of the round ending with a ch 1 and skip last sp, connect ch 1 to top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work one sc in next dc and in ch 1 space of prior round. *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch 1 sp of prior round*, repeat from * to * to end of round and connect last st to ch 2 with a sl st.

Round 5: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round, connect your last st with a sl st to the ch 3.

Round 6: ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 1 and skip next dc, dc in next 2 dc*, repeat * to * until end of round,  it should end with a ch 1 and skipped stitch, attach the ch 1 to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 7: ch 3, work one dc in each dc and ch 1 space to end of round, sl st last dc to the top of the ch 3.

Round 8: ch 3, work one dc in each dc, join last dc to ch 3 with a sl st. 

If you want it a little longer you can add a row of sc around the bottom.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Interchangeable Decorations

These are what make this hat awesome as a photo prop.  The openings worked into the hat make a great place to thread any color ribbon or to attach hair clip bows and flowers.  One hat….many looks!

How to make a flower clip:  crochet your favorite flower pattern (there are many, many out there and many are free).  Take your alligator clip and clip through the back of the flower being careful that the clip doesn’t show.  You can then attach the clip around the 2 dc in the 3^rd row from the bottom.  If using crocheted flowers you do not need to permanently attach the flower to the clip making the clip reusable as well.

How to add ribbon:  weave a 3 ft. long piece of ½” wide ribbon in and out through the open spaces on the 3^rd row from the bottom of the hat.  Start wherever you want your finished ribbon bow to be.  Once you have completed weaving the ribbon, tie in a pretty bow.

Use plastic or silk flowers: attach to an alligator clip using craft glue or a hot glue gun.

In A Jiff Scarf Crochet Pattern

This particular scarf is for sale on Etsy!

This is my own made-up go to pattern when I need to whip out a scarf really quickly or when I have some lovely super bulky yarn to use...but don't have a lot of it.  It is very easy to adjust the pattern to make it as wide or narrow as you need.  You can also add texture and a different look by making some very easy stitch changes which I will mention in the pattern.  Length is always dependent on who you are making the scarf for.  I usually will do a children's scarf between 3.5 and 4.5 feet long (minus the fringe) and an adult scarf between 5 and and 5.5 feet long (minus the fringe).  A children's length scarf takes about 2 hours if you crochet at a moderate speed (I'm by no means super fast!)

Materials:  super bulky yarn, size N (9 mm) hook, tapestry needle, measuring tape or ruler

Abbreviations: 
dc - double crochet
st - stitch
ch - chain

Instructions:
Foundation: ch 12. (add or subtract a stitch or two until you have a width you like)

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (our turning chain will count as a stitch throughout the pattern)

Row 2: ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across.

Continue row 2 until the scarf has reached it's desired length.  Fasten off and weave in ends with a tapestry needle.  Add fringe if desired. (see fringe instructions below)

Variation 1:
the green scarf in the photo above uses a slight variation, every other row of crochet is done in the back loop only (you can find instructions on how to do back loop only in a tutorial earlier in my blog).  This adds a subtle striping to the texture.  I like to do this when a yarn is a solid or a heather like the green.  If I use a multi-color yarn I generally just use regular dc stitches as the color adds the interest to the piece.

Variation 2: work every row in the back loop, this will produce a raised strip every two rows per side, as in the light blue scarf below.  The bright pink was worked in normal dc through both loops.

scarf worked in a chenille type yarn, the light blue was done with every row in the back loop only and the pink was done with standard dc.  Due to the texture of this yarn I omitted the fringe.

Adding fringe:  To add fringe first decide how long you want your fringe to be, since we are using super bulky yarn I take the length I want times two and add 2 inches.  For example if I want 5 inch fringe I would cut each piece of yarn for my fringe 12 inches long.  When making fringe out of worsted weight I use 2-3 strands for each stitch but with the bulkier yarn I would recommend using 1 or two strands.  If starting with a 12 chain foundation we will have 9 dc in each row therefore we will need either 18 or 36 strands (18 is one strand per stitch on each end of the scarf and 36 for two strands per stitch on each end).

Fold the strand or strands in half, use your hook to pull through the end stitch from the back.  Don't pull it all the way through, just far enough to make a loop.  Put the loose ends of the strands through the loop and pull tight.  Repeat in each stitch on both ends.  Trim with scissors when done so your fringe is nice and even.

Vi's Shell Headband - Free Crochet Pattern

Tonight I polled my Facebook fans for an idea for a free pattern for this blog.  Apparently everyone was out partying and I got two suggestions.  This is Vi's Shell Headband named after the daughter of my cousin Karen who suggested a headband pattern.

This will fit infants through school-aged children.  I can stretch mine to fit me but it's a tight fit and my yarn is strechier than normal cotton yarn.

Materials:

A small amount of cotton yarn (I used Nashua's Cilantro cotton blend yarn, this yarn is super stretchy and has great stitch definition)

G hook

Tapestry Needle

Optional: yarn of choice for flower decoration 

Abbreviations:

fdc - foundation double crochet
st- stitch
sl st- slip stitch
dc- double crochet
ch- chain

Special Stitches:

shell stitch - 5 dc in the same stitch

foundation double crochet (fdc) - this is a chainless foundation stitch which makes for a much stretchier finished item which is ideal for headbands.  I can't explain it very well but Teri over at Diamond Crochet & Crafts did a great tutorial which you can find here http://diamondcrochetcrafts.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-do-foundation-double-crochet.html

Instructions:

Row 1: Do 30 fdc stitches (count the beginning ch 3 as one of the stitches).  Turn. (there is no turning chain)

Row 2: Skip 2 st, *shell stitch in next st, skip st, sl st in next, skip st*, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Turn your work 1/4 turn so that the end is facing up.  Sl st in in side of the beginning ch 3 of the foundation row.

Row 3: repeat row 2 stitching into bottom of the foundation row.

At the end of row 3 do not finish off, instead fold right sides together and slip stitch the two ends together. 

Finish off and weave in ends.

Use as is or add your choice of decoration.  I added a nice and easy flower from one of my favorite blogs.  You can find it here http://neannersshop.blogspot.com/2010/11/super-duper-easy-perfect-posy.html.  You can glue the flower to an aligator clip and switch out decorations to match outfits.

Free Crochet Case Pattern (Sewing)

Hard as it might be to believe I felt the need to replace my half finished scarf crochet needle case.  It was functional but not pretty to be sure.  I had some beautiful fabric precuts fat quarters and charm packs from the Sunkissed collection by Moda that I had been meaning to use and this seemed like an ideal project.  It's a quick project and not too hard if you can sew in a straight line.  I have included a link to the pattern as the instructions have a lot of pictures and I didn't want the blog to take forever to load.

Click Here For The Crochet Case Pattern

Now in the process of creating the pattern and my finished case I learned a life lesson.  Mistakes happen to everyone and you just have to be persistent.  See my oops......



Oops #1  Right sides together or you end up with your seam on the wrong side!



Oops #2 When using the sewing machine keep the rest of your project out of the way!

Maybe the real lesson is that I should go buy a seam ripper!  Oh well, mistakes happen and it still turned out fine.

Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover Crochet Pattern

First, let me start by saying that there are some absolutely beautiful and amazing patterns for toilet roll covers out there!  However my decorating style is simple and contemporary and my house is filled with boys so I couldn't really see making a frilly doll cover or something covered with flowers.  I wanted a more clean look but still didn't want to spend money on one of those fancy brushed nickel TP covers.  That's how this pattern came about, necessity is the mother of invention they say!

This is an easy pattern and would be a great project for a beginner who is ready to make the leap from crocheting rectangles to working in rounds.

Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover

 Materials:

• 2 coordinating colors of worsted weight yarn (you will use less than one 50g skein of your primary color and only a few yards of the contrast color).  I like a high percentage of acrylic fiber for this project since you will want to wash it occasionally and don't want the shrinkage that can happen with cotton and wool.
• size H crochet hook (5.00 mm)
• tapestry needle (if you like to use one for weaving in ends, I just use my hook most of the time)

Notes:

• I use American crochet terms
• Keep a roll of the toilet paper you use most often handy to ensure a proper fit, I have designed this with a double roll of 2-ply tissue.  If you use single rolls you will need to omit a row and if you use the mega rolls then you will need to add a row on the top of the cover.

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
rd - round
st - stitch

Foundation- with your main color ch 10 and join to 1st chain with a sl st to make a ring.  You want a finger sized hole in the middle of your ring, this makes it easier to slide the cover off when you're ready to use this roll.

Rd 1 - ch 3 (always counts as first dc in this pattern), dc in next ch, dc each ch around and join to last ch in ch 3 with a sl st.

Rd 2 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc of prior row, join to ch 3 with sl st. 

Rd 3 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

Rd 4 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, * dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

Omit Rd 5 for a single roll sized cover.

Rd 5 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, *dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

For a mega roll cover add a round following the same pattern putting 4 single dc between each increase stitch that has 2 dc in the stitch.

Rd 6 - ch 1, sc in the front loop only of each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.  This round will fall where the side and top meet and going through the front loop only gives it a clean edge.  (If you're not sure what is meant by front loop only you can go to the previous post which explains this technique)

Rd 7-12 - ch 3, dc in each stitch around, join to ch 3 with a sl stitch. 

Now is a good time to check your fit, your cover should end about 1/4 to 1/2" above the end of the roll.

Rd 13 - switch to your contrast color. ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.

Rd 14 - ch 1, sc in each stich around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.  Fasten off.

Check fit and add an additional round of sc if needed.  Weave in all ends.