Colin's Snakes and Snails Preemie Hat

This preemie pattern is designed with some special touches just for the boys!  A modified grit stitch section gives the hat some much needed texture, while a reverse single crochet edging gives a little rope like detailing to the bottom.  I have named this hat for my nephew Colin, who along with his twin sister, Shelby, was born quite premature.  He is now an almost 6 year old full of life and vigor, for that my family is eternally grateful!

This pattern is free for your personal, charitable, or small home business use but please do not sell or reproduce this pattern in any way.  Any photos on my blog are the property of me, or used with permission, as such they are copyrighted and you may NOT use them without written permission.

Materials: H hook, Caron Simply Soft yarn or similar light worsted weight yarn (about 1 oz), tapestry needed (for weaving in ends). 

Notes: Pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch on the hdc rows. The finished hat has a circumference of 11.5"-12", use a G hook if making for a smaller preemie or an I hook for a larger preemie.

Instructions:

Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 1, *work 1 sc and 1 dc in next st, skip next st*. Continue from * to * around hat joining with a sl st to the beginning ch 1.

Round 6-11: Turn piece, ch 1, work dc in same st as ch 1. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in each sc of the prior round skipping the last sc of the round. Join to beginning ch with a sl st.

Round 12: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), work 1 hdc in each st around joining to the first hdc.

Round 13: Ch 1, reverse sc around hat joining with a sl st to the starting ch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ben's Button Flap Preemie Hat

Photo used with permission of Teri Diamond of Diamond Crochet

This versatile preemie sized hat is named for the son of one of my favorite photographers.  He and his twin sister were both born prematurely but have grown to be happy healthy kiddos!  This had measures about 10.5" around perfect for a small preemie.  To make for a larger preemie or a newborn simply increase your hook size up to an I.

Materials Needed:
Size H crochet hook (5.0 mm), about 1 oz of soft light worsted weight yarn (I like to use Caron Simply Soft), tapestry needle, scissors, sewing thread, sewing needle, and a button (anywhere from 1/2" to 1" in size)

Notes: This pattern uses US crochet terms.  

This pattern is free for use however you wish but please do not sell or reproduce the actual pattern itself and please use your own photos as all photos in this pattern are the property of Crafty Kate Going Crazy or Diamond Crochet.

copyright Teri Diamond

Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc) See the photos below to see how to make a magic circle. There are many great tutorials out there if you need further help on making a magic circle.

create a circle by putting end of yarn under the rest of the yarn as shown

Use your hook to pull a loop through and do a sl st

Make 8 hdc around the magic circle

Pull on the loose end of the thread that is under the circle

Once the circle is tight with no hole in the middle join to the first hdc with a sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc) I work these over the loose tail from the magic circle just so I have less weaving in to do later!

Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)

Rounds 5-8: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (32 hdc)

Round 9: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around and join to first hdc with a sl st.

Begin Flap: Ch 13. Turn and hdc in 2nd ch from the hook. Work 1 hdc in each ch. These hdc will be round 10 of the flap so simply continue with round 10.

copyright Teri Diamond

copyright Teri Diamond

Round 10: Work 1 hdc in each st around joining to 1st hdc with a sl st (do not work any more st on the flap this round)

Round 11: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around continuing up the flap to the end of the flap. Ch 1 and turn. Work back down the flap with a sl st in each stich. Join to 1st hdc of the round with a sl st.

Round 12: Ch 1, sc around joining to first sc with a sl st. Finish off and weave in ends.

Lay flap flat and sew on button through the flap and hat securing well. This will hold the flap in place and attach the button in one step.

Have fun making this and choosing your buttons!!!  It's amazing how versatile this hat can be with your color choice and button choice.  My favorite?  Homemade wood buttons made from a HUGE ash tree branch that landed on my roof during a storm last summer.  Lemons into lemonade!

Cotton Candy Baby Hat -Free Crochet Pattern

sizes 0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months)

Materials: K hook, bulky yarn, needle for weaving in ends

Notes: All terms are US crochet terms, pattern begins with a magic circle but you can substitute a ch 4 connected into a ring with a slip stitch.

Abbreviations: ch-chain, dc-double crochet, sl st-slip stitch, sp-space, sc-single crochet

Round 1: Magic circle, ch 3, 8 (9,10) dc for total of 9 (10,11) dc (starting ch counts as first dc), sl st to top loop of ch 3.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in same space as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, connect with sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * to end of round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, *dc in next 2 dc, dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 5: ch 3, dc in next st and in each stitch to the end of the round, connect to the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 6: repeat row 5 (for size 6-12 months repeat one more time)

Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each dc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the top of the first sc.

Round 8: ch 1, sc in each sc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 9: ch 1, work the following stitch pattern around the hat: *sc,dc,dc,sc* repeat. When you reach the end of the round connect with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Weave in ends.

You can use as is or dress it up with a flower or bow. 

Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set Free Crochet Pattern

I've debated back and forth on releasing this pattern on my blog for free or as a paid pattern on Etsy. In honor of the big Mommy & Baby giveaway I decided to go ahead and do it for free because every baby deserves to have extra special newborn pictures!!! Please see the terms of use tab on the blog for information on how this pattern may and may not be used. 

Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set
By Kate Knapp @ Crafty Kate Going Crazy

Materials Needed:
Worsted weight yarn in 2 shades of green (I used one skein Bernat Satin dark green and one skein Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in a medium green.

Sizes H & K crochet hook Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
Sc – single crochet
Dc- double crochet
Sc2tog- single crochet decrease
Sl St- slip stitch Ch- chain

Stitch Explanations: Sc2tog- insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through loop, yo, pull through the 3 loops on the hook.

Notes:
This pattern is written in US Crochet Terms.
 
The shell is worked with two strands of yarn held together.

Both items begin with a magic circle, there are many tutorials on this online.

Instructions are for a newborn size, you can up the sizing to a 3 months size by going up one hook size for the hat and shell.

Both pieces are worked in the round, starting chains do not count as stitches and you do not turn after the chain.

Hat Instructions:

Round 1: using the lighter green and the size H hook create a magic circle, ch 2, 10 dc. Sl st in 1st dc. (chains do not count as stitches in this pattern)

Round 2: ch 2, do 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)

Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 6-9: ch 2, 1 dc in each stitch, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 10: change to the darker green and ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Turtle Shell Instructions:

Round 1: Start with a magic circle using two strands and the K hook (one of each green which will create a mottled shell look). Ch 2, work 8 dc in the magic circle.

Round 2: ch 2, work 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)

Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.

Round 6: ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st.

Round 7: Using one strand of the light color ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now we will make the patches on the shell using just the one strand of the lighter green and the H hook. Make a total of 5 patches.

Foundation and Row 1: ch 2, work one sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (1 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the sc. (2 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in each sc. (4 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, one sc in each of the next two stitches, work 2 sc in the last stitch. (6 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, work one sc across until the last stitch, work 2 sc in the last stitch. (8 sc)

Rows 6 & 7: ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each stitch. (8 sc)

Row 8 & 9: ch 1, turn, work a sc2tog, sc in each stitch across except the last 2 stitches, sc2tog. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (you will have 6 stitches in row 8 and 4 stitches in row 9).

Sew on using random placement and rotating the patches on the shell to achieve a more natural look.

Angel Soft Baby Hat - Free Crochet Pattern

Long past time for a new pattern!  Today I am posting up my Angel Soft Baby Hat.  Perfect as a photo prop because it is designed to have interchangeable decorations that insert into the designed spaces between stitches. 

Angel Soft Baby Hat (with interchangeable adornment ideas)

Sizes 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12 – 18 months

Materials Needed:

Worsted weight soft boucle yarn (I used a soft natural color of Plymouth Yarn Boucle Merino Superwash)

Hook Size H (5.0) for 0-3 months, I (5.50) for 3-6 months, J for 6-12 months, K for 12-18 months

Tapestry Needle

For adornments (optional): yarn scraps, 2” alligator clips, 3 ft. of ½” wide ribbon, premade hair bows or flowers, craft glue

Small alligator style hair clips 

Abbreviations:

Dc – double crochet

Sp- space

St- stitch

Sl st- slip stitch

Ch- chain

Notes

Pattern is written with US crochet terms.

Hat is begun with a magic circle, if you don’t know how to make this I highly recommend looking up one of the many good tutorials on it or you may substitute a ch 4, connecting with a sl st to the first ch to make a ring.

Gauge: gauge sample worked with a size I hook, 5 dc = 2 inches wide and ¾ inch tall, crochet a sample using your yarn and a size I hook to determine if you are crocheting with the tension needed for this project, if not you may need to adjust up or down a hook size to achieve proper sizing.  This hat does have a LOT of stretch so it's very forgiving size wise.

Instructions

Hat

Begin with a magic circle (see notes section).

Round 1: Ch 3 in magic circle (counts as first dc), work 8 more dc in the circle, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work  2 dc in each dc around, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, ch 1, skip next st, *work 2 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, repeat  from * to * to the end of the round ending with a ch 1 and skip last sp, connect ch 1 to top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work one sc in next dc and in ch 1 space of prior round. *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch 1 sp of prior round*, repeat from * to * to end of round and connect last st to ch 2 with a sl st.

Round 5: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round, connect your last st with a sl st to the ch 3.

Round 6: ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 1 and skip next dc, dc in next 2 dc*, repeat * to * until end of round,  it should end with a ch 1 and skipped stitch, attach the ch 1 to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.

Round 7: ch 3, work one dc in each dc and ch 1 space to end of round, sl st last dc to the top of the ch 3.

Round 8: ch 3, work one dc in each dc, join last dc to ch 3 with a sl st. 

If you want it a little longer you can add a row of sc around the bottom.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Interchangeable Decorations

These are what make this hat awesome as a photo prop.  The openings worked into the hat make a great place to thread any color ribbon or to attach hair clip bows and flowers.  One hat….many looks!

How to make a flower clip:  crochet your favorite flower pattern (there are many, many out there and many are free).  Take your alligator clip and clip through the back of the flower being careful that the clip doesn’t show.  You can then attach the clip around the 2 dc in the 3^rd row from the bottom.  If using crocheted flowers you do not need to permanently attach the flower to the clip making the clip reusable as well.

How to add ribbon:  weave a 3 ft. long piece of ½” wide ribbon in and out through the open spaces on the 3^rd row from the bottom of the hat.  Start wherever you want your finished ribbon bow to be.  Once you have completed weaving the ribbon, tie in a pretty bow.

Use plastic or silk flowers: attach to an alligator clip using craft glue or a hot glue gun.

Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover Crochet Pattern

First, let me start by saying that there are some absolutely beautiful and amazing patterns for toilet roll covers out there!  However my decorating style is simple and contemporary and my house is filled with boys so I couldn't really see making a frilly doll cover or something covered with flowers.  I wanted a more clean look but still didn't want to spend money on one of those fancy brushed nickel TP covers.  That's how this pattern came about, necessity is the mother of invention they say!

This is an easy pattern and would be a great project for a beginner who is ready to make the leap from crocheting rectangles to working in rounds.

Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover

 Materials:

• 2 coordinating colors of worsted weight yarn (you will use less than one 50g skein of your primary color and only a few yards of the contrast color).  I like a high percentage of acrylic fiber for this project since you will want to wash it occasionally and don't want the shrinkage that can happen with cotton and wool.
• size H crochet hook (5.00 mm)
• tapestry needle (if you like to use one for weaving in ends, I just use my hook most of the time)

Notes:

• I use American crochet terms
• Keep a roll of the toilet paper you use most often handy to ensure a proper fit, I have designed this with a double roll of 2-ply tissue.  If you use single rolls you will need to omit a row and if you use the mega rolls then you will need to add a row on the top of the cover.

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
rd - round
st - stitch

Foundation- with your main color ch 10 and join to 1st chain with a sl st to make a ring.  You want a finger sized hole in the middle of your ring, this makes it easier to slide the cover off when you're ready to use this roll.

Rd 1 - ch 3 (always counts as first dc in this pattern), dc in next ch, dc each ch around and join to last ch in ch 3 with a sl st.

Rd 2 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc of prior row, join to ch 3 with sl st. 

Rd 3 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

Rd 4 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, * dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

Omit Rd 5 for a single roll sized cover.

Rd 5 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, *dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.

For a mega roll cover add a round following the same pattern putting 4 single dc between each increase stitch that has 2 dc in the stitch.

Rd 6 - ch 1, sc in the front loop only of each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.  This round will fall where the side and top meet and going through the front loop only gives it a clean edge.  (If you're not sure what is meant by front loop only you can go to the previous post which explains this technique)

Rd 7-12 - ch 3, dc in each stitch around, join to ch 3 with a sl stitch. 

Now is a good time to check your fit, your cover should end about 1/4 to 1/2" above the end of the roll.

Rd 13 - switch to your contrast color. ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.

Rd 14 - ch 1, sc in each stich around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.  Fasten off.

Check fit and add an additional round of sc if needed.  Weave in all ends.

Crochet Terms: Front Loop and Back Loop

As a frequent user of free online patterns I have noticed that there is almost always a comment or question when a pattern indicates to crochet only through the front loop or back loop.  I know I didn't get it at first and my work never turned out looking quite right.  It turns out I was always crocheting in the back loop without even knowing it!  Okay, so what are these and why should we crocheters care? 

When making a standard crochet stich you insert your hook into the stitch and through both loops of the stitch as shown below...

standard crochet stitch

This will produce a nice smooth finished project, but sometimes we don't want a smooth finish piece and this is where the posts come into play. 

When you are instructed to use the front loop you insert your hook through the front loop of the stitch only.

Front loop (insert hook only through the front loop of the stitch in the previous row)

Using the back loop only is just the opposite, you insert your hook only into the back loop of the stitch in the previous row. 

back loop (insert your hook through only the back loop of the stitch in the previous row)

So, what do these do to your finished project and why do we need them?  Using the front or back loop creates texture in your project.  Below is a photo of a green afghan that was worked in the back loop only which creates a ridge every two rows on the front and back of the project.  Alternating rows of front loop and back loop stitches will create ribbing, therefore you will use these often when making socks, gloves, and hats.  The ridges can be used for a decorative purpose or can be very practical, for example the ridges on my crocheted kitchen scrubber really help with getting the goo up that my boys leave on my table.

decorative ridge created by working all stitches in the front or back loop only

deep ribbing created by alternating rows in the front and back loops

There is one other place where I have come accross these stiches and that is when creating a nice neat corner on a project, one row done all in the front post or back loop will create a nice neat edge and cause the project to fold naturally.

Any questions?  Use the comments section and I will respond as quickly as possible!

Pattern Altering - Felted Crochet Hobo Bag Pattern

The more comfortable I get with crocheting the more I see the need to alter existing patterns to suit my own needs.  For example, I made a market bag a couple of weeks ago for going to our local farmers' market.  I used a free pattern from the Lion Brand website and other than adding some colored stripes and a decorative flower I stuck with the written instructions.  When it was finished I liked the shape of it (not sure about my color choices though!)  and wanted a handbag that would be similar but smaller.  After searching the web I found nothing that quite suited my purpose so I decided to alter the existing pattern to meet my needs....my new pattern is below.


On the left is my uh.."colorful" market bag and on the right is the felted hobo bag

 Materials:

• chunky wool yarn, I used 3 1/2 skeins of Chunky Wool Blast by Filatura Lanarota.  You can substitute any bulky yarn with a high wool content so long as it is not meant to be machine washable.  
• size I (5.50 mm) crochet hook
• stitch markers or scrap pieces of yarn in a color that contrasts with your project yarn
• 1 button if you want to add a closure to the handbag
• tapestry needle
• sewing thread and needle if you are adding a button

Gauge:  Not super important for this project as you can adjust the size as needed by adding rows or stitches, remember to work tightly so that it will felt well without having holes.  Remember that your bag will shrink between 30 and 40 percent with felting.

Special Notes:  I use American crochet terminology and abbreviations.  The stitches are worked in the space between the stitches not in the actual stitch loops, this adds strength to the finished product.  You can turn or not turn while working in rounds, since we are felting this bag it won't make much difference in the finished product.  Don't worry too much if your counts don't come out perfect, your bag will still work out fine!

Special Stitch: dc2tog - this is a double crochet decrease stitch.  Yo, insert hook in the space between the next two stitches, yo again, pull a loop through, yo and pull through two loops.  Yo, insert into next space, yo, pull a loop through, yo and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through remaining loops on the hook.

Abbreviations:
yo- yarn over
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
st- stitch
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
ch- chain
rd- round

To begin ch 3 and join with a sl st to form a circle.

Rd1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc 11 times in the middle of the circle, join with a sl st in the space between the ch 3 and the first dc. (12 dc)

Rd2: Ch 3, dc in same space as you sl st join from the previous rd, dc 2 times in the space between each st around the circle, sl st to sp between ch 2 and first dc. (24 dc)

Rd3: Ch 3, dc in same space as join, *dc in next sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until you finish this round, sl st in sp between ch and 1st dc. (36 dc)

Rd4: Ch 3, dc in same sp as join, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until you finish the rd, sl st in sp between ch and 1st dc. (48dc)

Rd 5: Ch 3, dc in same space as join, *dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until the end of the round and join with sl st. (60 dc)

Rd 6: Ch3, dc in each sp to the end of the rd (do not dc twice in any sp), join with sl st. (60 dc)

Rd 7: Ch 3, dc in same space as ch, *dc in next 4 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to the end of the rd, join with sl st. (72 dc)

Rd 8: Ch 3, dc in same sp as ch, *dc in next 7 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to end of the rd, join with sl st. (81 dc)

Rd 9: Ch 3, dc in same sp as chain, *dc in next 8 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to end of the rd, join with sl st. (90 dc)

This is where I stopped increasing, if you want your bag to be bigger around you can continue adding rows with increases until you reach your desired size. Just continue to add one single dc between your 2 dc stitches.

Rd 10-16: Ch 3, dc in each sp around, join to sp between ch and first dc with a sl st.

We are now going to do some decrease rows to give our bag it's hobo shape.  If you want a taller bag add more rows at this point with 1 dc per sp.

Rd 17-19: ch3, *dc in next 15 sp, dc2tog in next sp*, repeat to the end of the rd and join with sl st. (these will not work out evenly but don't worry about it, it will be fine once felted)

Rd 20: ch 3, dc in each sp around joining with sl st at the end of the rd.  Finish off.

Handle:

Lay the bag flat and fold in half with your joins making up one of the folds.  Fold in half again to find the center of the front and back and mark with a stitch marker.  Your handles are going to start at 16 stitches wide so using your center sp count 8 spaces on either side of the marker and add markers to each of those spaces. You can now remove the center marker.  Repeat on the back side.

Row 1: Join in marked sp with a sl st, dc in each sp until you reach your other marker, turn (16 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to last 3 sp, dc2tog, dc, turn

Rows 3-7: repeat row 2 (row 7 should be 6 dc wide), turn

Rows 8-18(?):  Ch 3, dc in each sp (6 dc)

Repeat this process on the other side of the bag.

If you want a longer handle repeat the last row until you reach your desired length remembering that you will have 30-40% shrinkage during felting.  I stopped at row 18 because I wanted my handbag to be tight up under my arm.

Once you have the desired length join the two sides of the handle with a row of sc on the back side of the handle.  Trim both edges of the handle with a row of sc.  Fasten off and weave in all ends.

How to Felt Your Bag:
To felt your bag machine wash with warm water (warm wash and rinse), you can use detergent but do not add fabric softener.  Tumble dry.  My bag was perfect after doing this once but if you are not happy with the felting you can repeat again.

Adding the button:
After felting my bag was tight except for a gap where the joins were which is now the front of my bag, this meant I didn't need to add a buttonhole.  You may need to cut a buttonhole in your bag if your joins were tighter than mine.  I then added the button to the inside of the bag on the side opposite from my hole so when closed the button shows on the front of my bag.