tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3136872332368040362024-02-19T08:41:20.219-06:00Crafty Kate Going CrazyA view into my crazy world of crafting....there's nothing I won't TRY to create! Learn from my failures and successes and learn how to make some cool stuff along the way.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-6216104320351470232013-05-25T10:44:00.002-05:002013-05-25T10:44:42.240-05:00Closing up ShopWith a heavy heart I have decided to close up shop and take down this blog. Dealing with people who want to complain about minor things (like photo clarity!) on free patterns has sucked the fun out of writing and sharing patterns. <br />
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If you use any of my patterns regularly please copy and paste into a word processing document before June 1st. After that time you may not be able to access the patterns.<br />
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I look forward to going back to enjoying crochet as a hobby!CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-15286605865094308202013-02-20T17:12:00.000-06:002013-02-20T17:12:01.068-06:00The "Creeper" Hat Pattern <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I made this hat for my son a few weeks ago after he saw a rather expensive knit version on a popular retail site. He is a HUGE Minecraft fan and loves green so this was right up his alley. I finished it a little over 2 weeks ago and he has since taken to wearing it both inside and outside!!!!<br />
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<b>Please note the base hat pattern is not mine and I am simply providing instructions on how to add this design to the base hat. I recommend this hat because all the hats I have made with it have turned out awesome and it is made with sc which is necessary for the "creeper" design to look right. The basic hat pattern can be found here: http://chiescrochetandknitting.blogspot.com/2005/11/very-simple-skateboarder-beanie.html</b><br />
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She offers tips on how to make it larger and smaller. For mine I used Red Heart Super Saver in spring green and in black.<br />
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<b>How to add the "creeper":</b><br />
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Find the center front 18 stitches of your hat, I just kind of guesstimated but use whatever method you are comfortable with. For my son I started the design on round 11 of the hat. You should start the design on whatever round seems appropriate to the size hat you are making therefore I am numbering this pattern starting with round 1 as it will be round 1 of the design area). I recommend starting the design a couple rows after stopping the increase rounds of the hat (once you work only 1 sc in each stitch).<br />
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Round 1: work green stitches until you reach the 18 stitches in the center front of the hat. Work 6 sc in black, 6 sc in green, and 6 sc in black. Finish the round in green.<br />
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Rounds 2-5: repeat round 1.<br />
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Round 6: Work in green until you reach the end of the back from the prior row, work 6 black stitches in the green stitches that fell between your two black squares (the 'eyes'). Finish the round in green.<br />
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Rounds 7-8: Repeat round 6<br />
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Round 9: Work green stopping 3 stitches before the black of round 8. Change to black and work 12 black sc. Finish round in green.<br />
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Rounds 10-12: Repeat round 9.<br />
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Round 13: Start black in same spot as prior round working only 3 sc in black, change to green and work 6 sc, change to black and work 3 sc, finish round in green.<br />
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Rounds 14-15: Repeat round 23.<br />
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Finish hat in all green.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-35109666940251121702013-01-21T16:21:00.000-06:002013-01-21T16:23:13.068-06:00Preemie Sized Super Variation Beanie Pattern (featuring The Bunny Hat)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>This is a preemie sized (11-12" circumference) hat that I designed after The Preemie Project (www.thepreemieproject.com) put out a call for Easter and spring themed hats. I found other patterns but the ears were made in the round which made them quite heavy, not really appropriate for such tiny babies. This one is simple and easy with no frills. Make them up in every pastel color imaginable and donate away to your local NICU!!!</i><br />
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<i>I am also including several variations that use the basic beanie hat the bunny ears are attached to. I bore easily and these variations keep me exciting to be making these hats. If I'm going to reach my goal of donating 100 hats this year I have to keep it interesting!!!</i><br />
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<i>As with all my free patterns you are welcome to use your finished items for any purpose you wish. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern and take your own photos, mine aren't that great anyways!</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Materials:</b> Size H crochet hook (G for smaller preemies, I for larger preemies), a little over 1 oz of light worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft), tapestry needle for weaving ends and attaching the ears.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Notes:</b> Pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. Beginning chains do not count as stitches throughout the pattern.</span><br />
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<strong style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Basic Hat</span></strong><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Ch 2 does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 1: Start with a Magic Circle, ch 2 and work 10 dc in the magic circle, pull tight and sl st to 1st dc. (10 dc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 2: Ch 2, work 2 dc in each st around, joing with a sl st to the 1st dc. (20 dc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 3: Ch 2, work 1 dc in the same st as the ch 2, *work 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the following st*, repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with a sl st. (30 dc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 4: Ch 2, work 2 dc in the same st as the ch 2, *work 1 dc in the next 5 st, work 2 dc in the following st*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the first dc. (35 dc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Rounds 5-8: Ch 2, work 1 dc in each st around joining with a sl st to the first dc. (35 dc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 9: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st around joinging with a sl st to the first sc. (35 sc) Fasten off and weave in the end.</span></div>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Ears (make 2)</span></strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The ch at the beginning of each row does not count as a st. Crocheting tightly will give you and ear that is stiff enough for you to mold the shape a bit which gives you some versatility with the finished look.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 1: Ch 5, turn and sc in 2nd ch and each ch accross. (4 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st accross. (4 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc, sc sc, 2 sc. (6 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 4-6: Ch 1, sc in each st accross. (6 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc, sc, sc2tog. (2 sctog and 2 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st. (4 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog twice (2 sc2tog)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog (1 sc2tog)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Row 11: Ch 1, sc. (1 sc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sc in down the side of the ear, sl st accross the bottom (the starting ch), and sc up the other side of the ear joining at the top of the ear with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in the ends.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Using a 12" length of yarn and the tapestry needle sew each ear to the top of the hat through the sl st on the bottom of the ears. I position on the top just outside of round 2 of the hat but place wherever you think is visually appealing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Other Variations: This basic hat pattern is super versatile and is my go-to pattern for making charity hats. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span id="goog_328653930"></span><span id="goog_328653931"></span>Pom-pom hat: Add a pom of any size to the top, I especially like to do a two color pom and use the contrast color as the sc edging (row 9)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Striped Hat: switch yarn colors every other row. The example in the photo is worked in the colors of our local college (go Hawkeyes!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Thick Thin Stripes: Use two colors of yarn, use one color for two rows then the other for one, keep switching back and forth in this manner.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Football Hat: Work rows 2 and 8 in a contrast color, Use a long piece of the contrast color and a tapestry needle to embroider laces onto the finished hat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Shelly Edged: On row 9 work a sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc pattern around joining with a sl st to the first sc.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9E320kUs318nNuHhaSu4XPaItbWnfEUg6SY2_Sbl4vg_WidjOqXSryEM9SH_nxdyZHL-uE70_46f2E08Mat1zYKpj6S_x1Pgx7laZx14W74VwM62fA0BnkinzpHU25AjbbxWESCjrCru/s1600/IMG_0648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9E320kUs318nNuHhaSu4XPaItbWnfEUg6SY2_Sbl4vg_WidjOqXSryEM9SH_nxdyZHL-uE70_46f2E08Mat1zYKpj6S_x1Pgx7laZx14W74VwM62fA0BnkinzpHU25AjbbxWESCjrCru/s200/IMG_0648.JPG" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Embellished Hat: Work hat or shelly edged version and add an applique or other embellishment such as a shabby flower.</span></div>
CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-77517046720112266652013-01-21T15:45:00.002-06:002013-01-21T15:50:14.530-06:00Colin's Snakes and Snails Preemie Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsiC8WT9HEFBt6zl02vyKQNvl35GFriiWupLSmSn56czEQCjqMDtC8EMi_t0eUWyr4IvcBslhZuX2dodmKozzgzcMX55sOvQeRbMmjpCIBp3Q5strLWcgwruZvEH2t0isVTi4UwIIn_qX/s1600/IMG_0589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsiC8WT9HEFBt6zl02vyKQNvl35GFriiWupLSmSn56czEQCjqMDtC8EMi_t0eUWyr4IvcBslhZuX2dodmKozzgzcMX55sOvQeRbMmjpCIBp3Q5strLWcgwruZvEH2t0isVTi4UwIIn_qX/s320/IMG_0589.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>This preemie pattern is designed with some special touches just for the boys! A modified grit stitch section gives the hat some much needed texture, while a reverse single crochet edging gives a little rope like detailing to the bottom. I have named this hat for my nephew Colin, who along with his twin sister, Shelby, was born quite premature. He is now an almost 6 year old full of life and vigor, for that my family is eternally grateful!</i><br />
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<i>This pattern is free for your personal, charitable, or small home business use but please do not sell or reproduce this pattern in any way. Any photos on my blog are the property of me, or used with permission, as such they are copyrighted and you may NOT use them without written permission.</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Materials:</b> H hook, Caron Simply Soft yarn or similar light worsted weight yarn (about 1 oz), tapestry needed (for weaving in ends). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Notes:</b><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch on the hdc rows. The finished hat has a circumference of 11.5"-12", use a G hook if making for a smaller preemie or an I hook for a larger preemie. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Instructions:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 5: Ch 1, *work 1 sc and 1 dc in next st, skip next st*. Continue from * to * around hat joining with a sl st to the beginning ch 1.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 6-11: Turn piece, ch 1, work dc in same st as ch 1. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in each sc of the prior round skipping the last sc of the round. Join to beginning ch with a sl st.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 12: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), work 1 hdc in each st around joining to the first hdc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 13: Ch 1, reverse sc around hat joining with a sl st to the starting ch. Fasten off and weave in ends.</span></div>
CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-31516242512912432022013-01-21T15:28:00.000-06:002013-01-21T15:48:33.075-06:00Ben's Button Flap Preemie Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTlqFpvv4YUQtInA72AFO8HWm7cMv6wO5_weQvS3NYU1ZGihzF6CdzpKVdh6Q4PA-I8hFQrfO_8YhDGVN9dTXiB7CpaDiILGATpdb0AN4G_Ly3GMc447kPUIK8O20pN6gC9OCTni0nvQIa/s1600/IMG_0621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTlqFpvv4YUQtInA72AFO8HWm7cMv6wO5_weQvS3NYU1ZGihzF6CdzpKVdh6Q4PA-I8hFQrfO_8YhDGVN9dTXiB7CpaDiILGATpdb0AN4G_Ly3GMc447kPUIK8O20pN6gC9OCTni0nvQIa/s320/IMG_0621.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUP1nQBl2dAMlbKxAz80s-TlshibLZ_Zuu9-F5ng_WsJkL0Q8FHG3P_uG4q32J_o4zMuQNOrHxZv9UjhMqlx2Nwr-KrsC6KYT9XdmiKsn1_APU9nCHEi2YiLkpfN5hmCxxj4CRSZ6Dr8HU/s1600/earflap+girl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUP1nQBl2dAMlbKxAz80s-TlshibLZ_Zuu9-F5ng_WsJkL0Q8FHG3P_uG4q32J_o4zMuQNOrHxZv9UjhMqlx2Nwr-KrsC6KYT9XdmiKsn1_APU9nCHEi2YiLkpfN5hmCxxj4CRSZ6Dr8HU/s320/earflap+girl.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo used with permission of Teri Diamond of Diamond Crochet</td></tr>
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<i>This versatile preemie sized hat is named for the son of one of my favorite photographers. He and his twin sister were both born prematurely but have grown to be happy healthy kiddos! This had measures about 10.5" around perfect for a small preemie. To make for a larger preemie or a newborn simply increase your hook size up to an I.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABnc99TGJ7PCPhflISYMBk9sNHKaD-_moEQZyE3b1m6atuZUDHg0vj989wIRVJ4Yll5uINs-FsW95-WDPvTmzj0OqZE5LCFRjWO2pWnBqRon2dtC64xZyXAbnAwm-1DFJShiv2gEzit3P/s1600/IMG_0597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABnc99TGJ7PCPhflISYMBk9sNHKaD-_moEQZyE3b1m6atuZUDHg0vj989wIRVJ4Yll5uINs-FsW95-WDPvTmzj0OqZE5LCFRjWO2pWnBqRon2dtC64xZyXAbnAwm-1DFJShiv2gEzit3P/s320/IMG_0597.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Materials Needed:</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Size H crochet hook (5.0 mm), about 1 oz of soft light worsted weight yarn (I like to use Caron Simply Soft), tapestry needle, scissors, sewing thread, sewing needle, and a button (anywhere from 1/2" to 1" in size)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Notes:</b> This pattern uses US crochet terms. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This pattern is free for use however you wish but please do not sell or reproduce the actual pattern itself and please use your own photos as all photos in this pattern are the property of Crafty Kate Going Crazy or Diamond Crochet.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcaJPp2DnUCnnC44G1-WhgAsF236xdmC_V3wCdFwHXVjeaDCAh-zExlxXsRjPdoVHhQMKKx7T4H0Y2_7YzOkr05cN9eAorM1ruaIMde80KVHFYXBurA4EoYtUpDyNH6GGuoUmqPZNywLmL/s1600/Ben+in+teal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcaJPp2DnUCnnC44G1-WhgAsF236xdmC_V3wCdFwHXVjeaDCAh-zExlxXsRjPdoVHhQMKKx7T4H0Y2_7YzOkr05cN9eAorM1ruaIMde80KVHFYXBurA4EoYtUpDyNH6GGuoUmqPZNywLmL/s200/Ben+in+teal.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">copyright Teri Diamond</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Round 1: Use a magic circle, Ch 1 and work 8 hdc in the magic circle. (8 hdc) See the photos below to see how to make a magic circle. There are many great tutorials out there if you need further help on making a magic circle.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaMwMa4GkiogwhlEF7eM0KShaUy1ktKHQmH9ysax2xcw2llFwm00v9784sw10P7I-k4HK92lFz0u-VUiIbKdyTBIewB8AxQZ8CvEP1ttMlNyYF25RaQkpY6moYh3zXP7hkaBbD_UDSv-uG/s1600/IMG_0598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaMwMa4GkiogwhlEF7eM0KShaUy1ktKHQmH9ysax2xcw2llFwm00v9784sw10P7I-k4HK92lFz0u-VUiIbKdyTBIewB8AxQZ8CvEP1ttMlNyYF25RaQkpY6moYh3zXP7hkaBbD_UDSv-uG/s320/IMG_0598.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">create a circle by putting end of yarn under the rest of the yarn as shown</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJRlk6iQt8JEtvUsOV5liKG5_Ruvtudjyj9KP8yEgTLRGjUZSLKpZ1ZkZbPmKTDgXE3WoxvRD-psa-3E-QrbPmaMc1wcBCLr7RzqOeL9D3Dds1vE6UHBOiwquDmekZReikKkxe3j5FRJ0/s1600/IMG_0599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJRlk6iQt8JEtvUsOV5liKG5_Ruvtudjyj9KP8yEgTLRGjUZSLKpZ1ZkZbPmKTDgXE3WoxvRD-psa-3E-QrbPmaMc1wcBCLr7RzqOeL9D3Dds1vE6UHBOiwquDmekZReikKkxe3j5FRJ0/s320/IMG_0599.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use your hook to pull a loop through and do a sl st</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9J4ULKzlZ1neCEpfsnI6pPvfx6ox7Ygu_BPVG4U0pHWVhci59IMgjIh0ZtDJj5bXh3a4M9qOYwhMVhoLbWV5yCJPw8GrLbD89MUqmOvd98jm95uB2_WawM4xGpWF31WxIMXVM_Ib3243V/s1600/IMG_0600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9J4ULKzlZ1neCEpfsnI6pPvfx6ox7Ygu_BPVG4U0pHWVhci59IMgjIh0ZtDJj5bXh3a4M9qOYwhMVhoLbWV5yCJPw8GrLbD89MUqmOvd98jm95uB2_WawM4xGpWF31WxIMXVM_Ib3243V/s320/IMG_0600.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make 8 hdc around the magic circle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuvxDcalDDpwilUFrqdDaB5tAKrppi52R-R-uue1yccJJ-kpm_MM4TzrgQ_T3A56VPq0T8-JIsGSuzP1ysPeM5GA1aFVMgwpReQUDS-H0YN2UQjug2R5YLIXV10UdRb7aIV7K_Ev7P2Uf/s1600/IMG_0601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuvxDcalDDpwilUFrqdDaB5tAKrppi52R-R-uue1yccJJ-kpm_MM4TzrgQ_T3A56VPq0T8-JIsGSuzP1ysPeM5GA1aFVMgwpReQUDS-H0YN2UQjug2R5YLIXV10UdRb7aIV7K_Ev7P2Uf/s320/IMG_0601.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull on the loose end of the thread that is under the circle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhh96OgEucVKnLDfdFUdxFAkDXcwjcfDzBl8sLPBz_XW7wKA0bTMTvmCPPEUfy3YLi2n3i4HDJ_FFcFsICUEDXfM7PsGbk7bbbIXAF4H2jbjl4sR36unIEwXdu-WRVMBOV_GeIwSSAbwC/s1600/IMG_0605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhh96OgEucVKnLDfdFUdxFAkDXcwjcfDzBl8sLPBz_XW7wKA0bTMTvmCPPEUfy3YLi2n3i4HDJ_FFcFsICUEDXfM7PsGbk7bbbIXAF4H2jbjl4sR36unIEwXdu-WRVMBOV_GeIwSSAbwC/s320/IMG_0605.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once the circle is tight with no hole in the middle join to the first hdc with a sl st.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st. (16 hdc) I work these over the loose tail from the magic circle just so I have less weaving in to do later!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Round 3: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as chain, 1 hdc in next st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (24 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in same st as ch, 1 hdc in next 2 st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around joining with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Rounds 5-8: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around joining to first hdc with a sl st. (32 hdc)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 9: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around and join to first hdc with a sl st.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Begin Flap: Ch 13. Turn and hdc in 2nd ch from the hook. Work 1 hdc in each ch. These hdc will be round 10 of the flap so simply continue with round 10.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">copyright Teri Diamond</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXahnJR1KOvmSW1kQU_tjPtIhHs3dmm60D6XKSlX1hKGTbA2jBjSPEPakRvbTS40KkwQCy9t-gfSwHfmAcmCim7pZSwRQ0zBD8LwI8OkhIWRfkd4Xi9CXM9sP9baFwk9gTtVmt1MKm2Fl/s1600/hdc+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXahnJR1KOvmSW1kQU_tjPtIhHs3dmm60D6XKSlX1hKGTbA2jBjSPEPakRvbTS40KkwQCy9t-gfSwHfmAcmCim7pZSwRQ0zBD8LwI8OkhIWRfkd4Xi9CXM9sP9baFwk9gTtVmt1MKm2Fl/s200/hdc+back.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">copyright Teri Diamond</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 10: Work 1 hdc in each st around joining to 1st hdc with a sl st (do not work any more st on the flap this round)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 11: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st around continuing up the flap to the end of the flap. Ch 1 and turn. Work back down the flap with a sl st in each stich. Join to 1st hdc of the round with a sl st.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Round 12: Ch 1, sc around joining to first sc with a sl st. Finish off and weave in ends.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Lay flap flat and sew on button through the flap and hat securing well. This will hold the flap in place and attach the button in one step.</span></div>
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Have fun making this and choosing your buttons!!! It's amazing how versatile this hat can be with your color choice and button choice. My favorite? Homemade wood buttons made from a HUGE ash tree branch that landed on my roof during a storm last summer. Lemons into lemonade!</div>
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CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-1962110948833432022013-01-05T12:21:00.000-06:002013-01-21T19:05:34.708-06:00Butterfly Kisses Preemie Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #a64d79;">This hat is worked using an H hook and a small amount of Caron Simply Soft Yarn. The finished circumference is about 10" so you can adjust to a smaller or larger size by using a different sized hook or a lighter or heavier weight yarn. Add any adornment that you wish, I chose a fabric and bead applique. Whatever you choose make sure that you secure it well for safety reasons.</span><br />
<span style="color: #a64d79;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u><b>Note:</b></u> This pattern is in done in American crochet terms.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;">Begin with a magic circle or chain 4 and join with a sl st to make a ring. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"> </span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 1</u>: ch 1, work 8 hdc into your magic circle or starting ring. Join with a sl st to your 1st hdc. Ch 1. (8 hdc)</span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 2</u>: work 2 hdc in each st around joining with a sl st to the 1st hdc. Ch 1. (16 hdc) </span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 3</u>: work 1 hdc in the same st as the sl st. *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * to end of round joining with a sl st to the first hdc. Ch 1. (24 hdc) </span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 4</u>: work 1 hdc in the same st as the sl st and in the next st. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * to end of the round joining to the first hdc with a sl st. (32 hdc)</span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 5-8</u>: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work one dc in same st as ch 3. 2 dc in next st, skip 2dc. *2 dc in next 2 st, skip 2 st.* Repeat from * to * to end of the round joining with a sl st to top of the ch 3. (32 dc)</span><span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>Round 9-10</u>: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around joining with sl st to the ch 1. Finish off at the end of round 10. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #38761d;">Weave in loose ends and attach adornment of your choice.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span><span style="color: #351c75;">This pattern is free to use however you choose to make finished items. However you may not reproduce and sell the actual pattern itself. If you wish to link to the pattern you may but please use a link and do not copy and paste to any other site.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #741b47; color: #351c75;"><br /></span><i><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; color: #741b47;">Pattern inspired by the Abbey Hat and altered with permission of Diamond Crochet. Please check her wonderful patterns and finished items at www.facebook.com/Diamond Crochet. You can find the Abbey Hat in preemie size <a href="http://diamondcrochetcrafts.blogspot.com/2013/01/abbey-hat-preemie-crochet-pattern.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></i><br />
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<span style="color: #a64d79;">This pattern is untested so please let me know if you find any errors!!!!</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: #38761d;">Abbreviations used:</span></u></b><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">sl st - slip stitch</span><span style="color: #38761d;">ch - chain</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">hdc - half double crochet</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">dc - double crochet</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">sc - single crochet</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">st - stitch</span><br />
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CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-37800551661872130292012-03-28T08:53:00.000-05:002012-03-28T08:56:41.512-05:00Cotton Candy Baby Hat -Free Crochet Pattern<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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sizes 0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months)
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Materials: K hook, bulky yarn, needle for weaving in ends
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Notes: All terms are US crochet terms, pattern begins with a magic circle but you can substitute a ch 4 connected into a ring with a slip stitch.
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Abbreviations: ch-chain, dc-double crochet, sl st-slip stitch, sp-space, sc-single crochet
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Round 1: Magic circle, ch 3, 8 (9,10) dc for total of 9 (10,11) dc (starting ch counts as first dc), sl st to top loop of ch 3.
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Round 2: ch 3, dc in same space as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, connect with sl st to top of ch 3.
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Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * to end of round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.
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Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, *dc in next 2 dc, dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.
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Round 5: ch 3, dc in next st and in each stitch to the end of the round, connect to the ch 3 with a sl st.
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Round 6: repeat row 5
(for size 6-12 months repeat one more time)
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Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each dc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the top of the first sc.
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Round 8: ch 1, sc in each sc to the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first sc.
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Round 9: ch 1, work the following stitch pattern around the hat: *sc,dc,dc,sc* repeat. When you reach the end of the round connect with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Weave in ends.
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You can use as is or dress it up with a flower or bow. <br />
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</div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-89726264984279663732012-03-08T15:31:00.000-06:002012-04-11T13:48:33.236-05:00Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set Free Crochet PatternI've debated back and forth on releasing this pattern on my blog for free or as a paid pattern on Etsy. In honor of the big Mommy & Baby giveaway I decided to go ahead and do it for free because every baby deserves to have extra special newborn pictures!!!
Please see the terms of use tab on the blog for information on how this pattern may and may not be used. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrfSniyiKHWu_sLrlVDwo3JXB5TbCX1X734skWdeg9mINpL96zaLovnJq3w7yAuihczSUUaMP2DhbptlG8AviZq66BEBAXvlTxwzbAOQqU87ECHJwDgMbm9zOg9d1tRmm-IiY3XrNtQoP/s1600/shell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrfSniyiKHWu_sLrlVDwo3JXB5TbCX1X734skWdeg9mINpL96zaLovnJq3w7yAuihczSUUaMP2DhbptlG8AviZq66BEBAXvlTxwzbAOQqU87ECHJwDgMbm9zOg9d1tRmm-IiY3XrNtQoP/s320/shell.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Newborn Turtle Photo Prop Set</span></strong>
<br />
By Kate Knapp @ Crafty Kate Going Crazy
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<br />
<strong>Materials Needed:</strong>
<br />
Worsted weight yarn in 2 shades of green (I used one skein Bernat Satin dark green and one skein Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in a medium green.
<br />
<br />
Sizes H & K crochet hook
Tapestry needle
<br />
<br />
<strong>Abbreviations:</strong><br />
Sc – single crochet
<br />
Dc- double crochet
<br />
Sc2tog- single crochet decrease
<br />
Sl St- slip stitch
Ch- chain
<br />
<br />
<strong>Stitch Explanations:</strong>
Sc2tog- insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through loop, yo, pull through the 3 loops on the hook.
<br />
<br />
<strong>Notes:</strong>
<br />
This pattern is written in US Crochet Terms.<br />
<br />
The shell is worked with two strands of yarn held together.
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<br />
Both items begin with a magic circle, there are many tutorials on this online.<br />
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Instructions are for a newborn size, you can up the sizing to a 3 months size by going up one hook size for the hat and shell.
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<br />
Both pieces are worked in the round, starting chains do not count as stitches and you do not turn after the chain.
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<br />
<strong>Hat Instructions:</strong>
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<br />
Round 1: using the lighter green and the size H hook create a magic circle, ch 2, 10 dc. Sl st in 1st dc. (chains do not count as stitches in this pattern)
<br />
<br />
Round 2: ch 2, do 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)
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<br />
Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 6-9: ch 2, 1 dc in each stitch, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 10: change to the darker green and ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
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<br />
<strong>Turtle Shell Instructions:</strong>
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<br />
Round 1: Start with a magic circle using two strands and the K hook (one of each green which will create a mottled shell look). Ch 2, work 8 dc in the magic circle.
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<br />
Round 2: ch 2, work 2 dc in each dc of prior round. Connect with a sl st to the first dc (not the chain)
<br />
<br />
Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first stich, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in the following stitch* repeat from *to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
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<br />
Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, *2 dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 dc*, repeat from * to* until the end of the round, connect with a sl st to the first dc.
<br />
<br />
Round 6: ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st.
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<br />
Round 7: Using one strand of the light color ch 1, work one sc in each stitch around, connect to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
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<br />
Now we will make the patches on the shell using just the one strand of the lighter green and the H hook. Make a total of 5 patches.
<br />
<br />
Foundation and Row 1: ch 2, work one sc in the 2nd ch from the hook.
(1 sc)<br />
<br />
Row 2: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the sc.
(2 sc)<br />
<br />
Row 3: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in each sc.
(4 sc)<br />
<br />
Row 4: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, one sc in each of the next two stitches, work 2 sc in the last stitch.
(6 sc)<br />
<br />
Row 5: ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in the first sc, work one sc across until the last stitch, work 2 sc in the last stitch.
(8 sc)<br />
<br />
Rows 6 & 7: ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each stitch.
(8 sc)<br />
<br />
Row 8 & 9: ch 1, turn, work a sc2tog, sc in each stitch across except the last 2 stitches, sc2tog. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
(you will have 6 stitches in row 8 and 4 stitches in row 9).<br />
<br />
Sew on using random placement and rotating the patches on the shell to achieve a more natural look.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-47793547632972936392012-03-04T18:02:00.000-06:002012-03-04T18:02:07.446-06:00Diamond Crochet & Crafts Newborn Bulky Pouch PatternFirst up in a month full of wonderful baby crafts is a pattern by my good friend and very talented designer Teri over at Diamond Crochet & Crafts blog. This is a fantastic baby photography prop that is worked in Lion Brand Homespun with a Q hook. It works up fast, looks beautiful, and is soft and cozy for the baby who is lucky enough to be photographed in it.
Click the link below to access the pattern.
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<a href="http://diamondcrochetcrafts.blogspot.com/2012/03/newborn-bulky-pouch-crochet-pattern.html" target="_blank">Click Here For The Pattern</a></div>
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Check out Teri's other awesome baby and adult patterns at her blog, on Etsy, Ravelry.com, or on Facebook.</div>
<u><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/diamondcrochetcrafts">http://www.facebook.com/diamondcrochetcrafts</a></span></u><br />CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-64391050417156387152012-02-15T15:30:00.000-06:002012-02-15T15:33:01.843-06:00NOW FREE! Toilet Paper Cover & Toilet Rug Pattern<br />
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This is an updated version of my toilet paper cover and I have added a pattern for a matching rug designed to fit around the base of the toilet.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjs6BVNGmM45sFkMlFVeGqApQuIH67CP6Zc4lOTLWt5mXwpo_U9z_xh3VpS9n0G-wyAR3GnhoRzd9NbHLxtRaPK9lt8p4Mxg7Siu8_VyuI6HoZz1NVFfO4-f2S8RPLhltZq0afPfjjakI/s1600/pottyshawlset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjs6BVNGmM45sFkMlFVeGqApQuIH67CP6Zc4lOTLWt5mXwpo_U9z_xh3VpS9n0G-wyAR3GnhoRzd9NbHLxtRaPK9lt8p4Mxg7Siu8_VyuI6HoZz1NVFfO4-f2S8RPLhltZq0afPfjjakI/s200/pottyshawlset.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-no-proof: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="WordSection2">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: left;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Materials Needed:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">7 ounces of worsted weight yarn for the potty shawl and as
an accent color on the toilet paper cozy (in two balls) and 3 ounces of
contrasting yarn for the toilet paper cozy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is best to choose an acrylic or cotton yarn that is washable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Size M (9 mm) crochet hook, Size H (5 mm) crochet hook<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Tapestry needle<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Optional: non-slip rug backing<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Abbreviations:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sc – single crochet<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Dc- double crochet<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Dc2tog-double crochet decrease<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">St- stitch<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sl St- slip stitch<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 150%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ch- chain<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Stitch Explanation:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b><br />
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</div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Dc2tog:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo,
pull through loop, yo, pull through first 2 loops on the hook, yo, insert hook
into next stitch, yo, pull through loop, yo, pull through first two loops on
the hook, yo, pull through remaining loops on the hook (there should be 3 loops
on the hook).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Gauge:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Be sure to check your
gauge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you gauge swatch is larger
than what is indicated below, use a smaller hook.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If your swatch is too small then go up a hook
size.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">2 rows of 5 dc= 3.5” wide
and 2” tall</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;">Notes:</span></u></b><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This pattern is written in US Crochet Terms. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The potty shawl is worked with two strands of yarn held together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are not comfortable with this you can
substitute a bulky yarn, keep in mind that you will to choose a machine
washable yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The shawl is designed to fit a standard size toilet; you may need to
make adjustments if you want a perfect fit around your toilet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best way to do this is to lay it down and
check the fit periodically around your toilet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">The toilet paper cozy was designed to fit a double roll of 2-ply
tissue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Adjustments are included for
fitting a single roll or mega roll.</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><o:p></o:p></span></u></b></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="color: #548dd4; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-themecolor: text2; mso-themetint: 153;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Instructions:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Potty Shawl<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIK_-lEnRwhQo0gDQhuLeZFIihqy6JijQsThQUsfH6fiwnDzlOkE9YfhKtH6JQy3u17eU-53iW6qak1QT9FIYfp6zOJGjuYVVGWpL_e1ZVtcDuVM4e-oYz6noLsWfloaOuDcs2SZvWMXR/s1600/ff.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIK_-lEnRwhQo0gDQhuLeZFIihqy6JijQsThQUsfH6fiwnDzlOkE9YfhKtH6JQy3u17eU-53iW6qak1QT9FIYfp6zOJGjuYVVGWpL_e1ZVtcDuVM4e-oYz6noLsWfloaOuDcs2SZvWMXR/s200/ff.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Foundation Row: Ch 40 <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 1: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>DC in 3<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">rd</span></sup>
ch from hook, dc in each chain to the end of the foundation chain. Ch 2,
turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(38 dc) <span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">The turning chain does
not count as a stitch throughout this pattern.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 2: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2 dc in first
st, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>dc in each st across to last st, 2
dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (40 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 3: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>repeat row 2.
(42 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 4 – 12: dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(42 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now we will begin working on one of the rug sides that go
around the toilet base.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 13: dc in the next 13 dc, ch 2, turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(13 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 14-18: dc in each dc across ch 2, turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(13 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 19: dc2tog, dc in next 9 dc, dc2tog, ch 2, turn. (9 dc,
2 dc2tog)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row 20: dc2tog, dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fasten off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(7 dc, 2 dc2tog)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Attach to other edge of the piece with a sl st to begin the
second rug side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Repeat rows 13-20.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weave in all ends.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Attach a single strand of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>yarn with a sl st and sc around the edges of
the finished piece.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cut rug backing to size and shape of the potty shawl and sew
on with yarn and tapestry needle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection3">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
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</div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Toilet Paper Cozy<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7yhGtrwAWhz7-SVg2NooUufAK-0-UpfRbz2MpdcogEyJ2C2TPP1KOmFfIIj5Osiq5d0vIGmvbRz7pGhaQMyQxyefu5_8lIdYMZWOSC-II4npV7SxbKwjmku5Epj6sIm7w1Xd_n68Kh46I/s1600/aaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7yhGtrwAWhz7-SVg2NooUufAK-0-UpfRbz2MpdcogEyJ2C2TPP1KOmFfIIj5Osiq5d0vIGmvbRz7pGhaQMyQxyefu5_8lIdYMZWOSC-II4npV7SxbKwjmku5Epj6sIm7w1Xd_n68Kh46I/s200/aaa.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Foundation
Circle:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with your main color ch 8 and
join to 1st chain with a sl st to make a ring. You want a finger sized hole in
the middle of your ring; this makes it easier to slide the cover off when
you're ready to use this roll.<br />
<br />
Row 1: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3 (always counts as first dc
in this pattern), work 9 dc in the ring, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>join to ch 3 with a sl st. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(10 dc)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><br />
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: left;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">
</span></div>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">
</span><span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /><span style="font-family: Calibri;">
Row 2: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, 2 dc
in each dc of prior row, join to ch 3 with sl st. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(20 dc)<br />
<br />
Row 3: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, *dc
in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a
sl st to ch 3. (30 dc)<br />
<br />
Row 4: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, * dc
in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a
sl st to ch 3.(40 dc)<br />
<br />
Omit Row 5 for a single roll sized cover.<br />
<br />
Row 5: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, *dc
in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a
sl st to ch 3. (50 dc)<br />
<br />
For a mega roll cover add a round following the same pattern putting 4 single
dc between each increase stitch that has 2 dc in the stitch. (60 dc)<br />
<br />
Row 6: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 1, sc in the back loop only of
each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st. This round will fall where the
side and top meet and going through the back loop only creates a ridge that
creates a sharp edge instead of a rounded edge.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4KbxZPDq2ZY7rETTA4ml7dsoiO5-yBLG3Ac_8e1f3ijF-34haG2NP2SMk6kbm8gH7qoe_JBaA1J7703Eb97UrTTuxlrvVZwT1Js1xH8Boi4s0rnz6zBdv6t5AW3k6uuG1-p_iIHNRac6/s1600/aaaaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4KbxZPDq2ZY7rETTA4ml7dsoiO5-yBLG3Ac_8e1f3ijF-34haG2NP2SMk6kbm8gH7qoe_JBaA1J7703Eb97UrTTuxlrvVZwT1Js1xH8Boi4s0rnz6zBdv6t5AW3k6uuG1-p_iIHNRac6/s200/aaaaa.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row
7-9: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 3, dc in each stitch around
(through both loops from here on out), join to ch 3 with a sl stitch. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row
10: change to contrast color and ch 3, dc in each stitch around, join to ch 3
with a sl stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row
11: change to main color and ch 3, dc in each stitch around; join to ch 3 with
a sl stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row
12: ch 3, dc in each stitch around, join to ch 3 with a sl stitch.<br />
<br />
(Now is a good time to check your fit, your cover should end about 1/4 to
1/2" above the end of the roll.)<br />
<br />
Row 13: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>switch to your contrast color.
ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.<br />
<br />
Row 14: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ch 1, sc in each stich around,
join to ch 1 with a sl st. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: #666666; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Row
15:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>change back to main color, ch 1, sc
in each stitch around and join to ch 1 with a sl st.<br />
Check fit. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add an additional round of sc
if needed. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fasten off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weave in all ends.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-90219268861124305442012-01-28T14:32:00.002-06:002012-03-12T10:16:28.375-05:00Angel Soft Baby Hat - Free Crochet PatternLong past time for a new pattern! Today I am posting up my Angel Soft Baby Hat. Perfect as a photo prop because it is designed to have interchangeable decorations that insert into the designed spaces between stitches. <br />
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Nyala; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-fareast-font-family: GungsuhChe;">Angel Soft
Baby Hat </span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Nyala; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-fareast-font-family: GungsuhChe;">(with interchangeable adornment ideas)<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<div class="WordSection1">
</div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Nyala; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-fareast-font-family: GungsuhChe; mso-no-proof: yes;"><v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f">
<v:stroke joinstyle="miter">
<v:formulas>
<v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0">
<v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1">
<v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1">
<v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2">
<v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth">
<v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0">
<v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight">
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</v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:formulas>
<v:path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f">
<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">
</o:lock></v:path></v:stroke></v:shapetype></span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Nyala; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-fareast-font-family: GungsuhChe;">Sizes 0-3
months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12 – 18 months</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Nyala; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-fareast-font-family: GungsuhChe;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="WordSection1">
</div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: left;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"></span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Materials
Needed:<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></b></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Worsted weight soft boucle yarn (I used a soft natural color of
Plymouth Yarn Boucle Merino Superwash) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hook Size H (5.0) for 0-3
months, I (5.50) for 3-6 months, J for 6-12 months, K for 12-18 months<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Tapestry Needle<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For adornments
(optional): yarn scraps, 2” alligator clips, 3 ft. of ½” wide ribbon, premade
hair bows or flowers, craft glue<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Small alligator style
hair clips<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">Abbreviations:</span></u></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Dc – double crochet<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sp- space<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">St- stitch<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sl st- slip stitch<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Ch- chain<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="WordSection2">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">
</span>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">Notes</span></u></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Pattern is written with
US crochet terms.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hat is begun with a magic
circle, if you don’t know how to make this I highly recommend looking up one of
the many good tutorials on it or you may substitute a ch 4, connecting with a
sl st to the first ch to make a ring.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Gauge: gauge sample
worked with a size I hook, 5 dc = 2 inches wide and ¾ inch tall, crochet a
sample using your yarn and a size I hook to determine if you are crocheting
with the tension needed for this project, if not you may need to adjust up or
down a hook size to achieve proper sizing. This hat does have a LOT of stretch so it's very forgiving size wise.</span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;">Instructions</span></u></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Aharoni;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hat<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Begin with a magic circle (see notes section).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 1: Ch 3 in magic circle (counts as first dc), work 8
more dc in the circle, connect to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 2: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2 dc in each dc around, connect to the top of
the ch 3 with a sl st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, ch 1, skip next st,
*work 2 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, repeat<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>from * to * to the end of the round ending
with a ch 1 and skip last sp, connect ch 1 to top of the ch 3 with a sl st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, work one sc in next dc
and in ch 1 space of prior round. *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch
1 sp of prior round*, repeat from * to * to end of round and connect last st to
ch 2 with a sl st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 5: ch 3, dc in same sp as ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc
in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of
the round, connect your last st with a sl st to the ch 3.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 6: ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 1 and skip next dc, dc in
next 2 dc*, repeat * to * until end of round, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it should end with a ch 1 and skipped stitch,
attach the ch 1 to the top of the ch 3 with a sl st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 7: ch 3, work one dc in each dc and ch 1 space to end
of round, sl st last dc to the top of the ch 3.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Round 8: ch 3, work one dc in each dc, join last dc to ch 3
with a sl st.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you want it a little longer you can add a row of sc
around the bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fasten off and weave
in ends.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Interchangeable
Decorations<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">These are what make this hat awesome as a photo prop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The openings worked into the hat make a great
place to thread any color ribbon or to attach hair clip bows and flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One hat….many looks!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">How to make a flower clip:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>crochet your favorite flower pattern (there are many, many out there and
many are free).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take your alligator clip
and clip through the back of the flower being careful that the clip doesn’t
show.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can then attach the clip
around the 2 dc in the 3<span style="font-size: small;"><sup>rd</sup> row from the bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If using crocheted flowers you do not need to
permanently attach the flower to the clip making the clip reusable as well.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">How to add ribbon:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>weave a 3 ft. long piece of ½” wide ribbon in and out through the open
spaces on the 3<span style="font-size: small;"><sup>rd</sup> row from the bottom of the hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Start wherever you want your finished ribbon
bow to be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once you have completed
weaving the ribbon, tie in a pretty bow.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Use plastic or silk flowers: attach to an alligator clip
using craft glue or a hot glue gun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-78639679109584474342012-01-19T13:26:00.000-06:002012-01-19T13:26:10.008-06:00Toilet Paper Cozy and Potty ShawlI have decided to offer the first 30 downloads of this pattern for free from ravelry.com! This is an updated version of my toilet paper roll cover and a matching floor rug that fits around the base of the toilet. Once it has been downloaded 30 times it will be returned to it's normal pattern price of $1.50...which I think is quite reasonable considering the hours that went into designing it to fit perfectly!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjs6BVNGmM45sFkMlFVeGqApQuIH67CP6Zc4lOTLWt5mXwpo_U9z_xh3VpS9n0G-wyAR3GnhoRzd9NbHLxtRaPK9lt8p4Mxg7Siu8_VyuI6HoZz1NVFfO4-f2S8RPLhltZq0afPfjjakI/s1600/pottyshawlset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjs6BVNGmM45sFkMlFVeGqApQuIH67CP6Zc4lOTLWt5mXwpo_U9z_xh3VpS9n0G-wyAR3GnhoRzd9NbHLxtRaPK9lt8p4Mxg7Siu8_VyuI6HoZz1NVFfO4-f2S8RPLhltZq0afPfjjakI/s320/pottyshawlset.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/potty-shawl--toilet-paper-cozy-set" target="_blank">Click here to download the pattern from ravelry.com</a>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-56163155565077458932012-01-18T16:22:00.000-06:002012-01-21T11:06:52.955-06:00In A Jiff Scarf Crochet Pattern<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKi-Cgm82ShqMFtqkDIU8BPnl0zU-MFTP9bR0acxfbqISclXSv-10aXYH9dnd-qLVkEXSqqAifwaFIXGI8e02A41yZAyloTdQl8KXOOoWUuG0DSygsr5FcBWrZuZZSSA3NOtiBByVSMz3L/s1600/greenscarf.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKi-Cgm82ShqMFtqkDIU8BPnl0zU-MFTP9bR0acxfbqISclXSv-10aXYH9dnd-qLVkEXSqqAifwaFIXGI8e02A41yZAyloTdQl8KXOOoWUuG0DSygsr5FcBWrZuZZSSA3NOtiBByVSMz3L/s320/greenscarf.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This particular scarf is for sale on Etsy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This is my own made-up go to pattern when I need to whip out a scarf really quickly or when I have some lovely super bulky yarn to use...but don't have a lot of it. It is very easy to adjust the pattern to make it as wide or narrow as you need. You can also add texture and a different look by making some very easy stitch changes which I will mention in the pattern. Length is always dependent on who you are making the scarf for. I usually will do a children's scarf between 3.5 and 4.5 feet long (minus the fringe) and an adult scarf between 5 and and 5.5 feet long (minus the fringe). A children's length scarf takes about 2 hours if you crochet at a moderate speed (I'm by no means super fast!)<br />
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<strong>Materials:</strong> super bulky yarn, size N (9 mm) hook, tapestry needle, measuring tape or ruler<br />
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<strong>Abbreviations:</strong> <br />
dc - double crochet<br />
st - stitch<br />
ch - chain<br />
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<strong>Instructions:</strong><br />
Foundation: ch 12. (add or subtract a stitch or two until you have a width you like)<br />
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Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (our turning chain will count as a stitch throughout the pattern)<br />
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Row 2: ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across.<br />
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Continue row 2 until the scarf has reached it's desired length. Fasten off and weave in ends with a tapestry needle. Add fringe if desired. (see fringe instructions below)<br />
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<strong>Variation 1:</strong> <br />
the green scarf in the photo above uses a slight variation, every other row of crochet is done in the back loop only (you can find instructions on how to do back loop only in a tutorial earlier in my blog). This adds a subtle striping to the texture. I like to do this when a yarn is a solid or a heather like the green. If I use a multi-color yarn I generally just use regular dc stitches as the color adds the interest to the piece.<br />
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<strong>Variation 2</strong>: work every row in the back loop, this will produce a raised strip every two rows per side, as in the light blue scarf below. The bright pink was worked in normal dc through both loops.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5uCgzZBIYlsSgpcIsMojQzp7hZ-CiaoLkgN_6uxQbWJO3fLZnQDZD0G80SUbfuP8u2Gzz4GiZXmDg9bIpCn4-8Ic7EpTWOkcDidadRbEBz2PFbUH0f-vurcMvzPPg4DVt4o5_BOmClll/s1600/scarves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5uCgzZBIYlsSgpcIsMojQzp7hZ-CiaoLkgN_6uxQbWJO3fLZnQDZD0G80SUbfuP8u2Gzz4GiZXmDg9bIpCn4-8Ic7EpTWOkcDidadRbEBz2PFbUH0f-vurcMvzPPg4DVt4o5_BOmClll/s320/scarves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scarf worked in a chenille type yarn, the light blue was done with every row in the back loop only and the pink was done with standard dc. Due to the texture of this yarn I omitted the fringe.<br />
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<strong>Adding fringe:</strong> To add fringe first decide how long you want your fringe to be, since we are using super bulky yarn I take the length I want times two and add 2 inches. For example if I want 5 inch fringe I would cut each piece of yarn for my fringe 12 inches long. When making fringe out of worsted weight I use 2-3 strands for each stitch but with the bulkier yarn I would recommend using 1 or two strands. If starting with a 12 chain foundation we will have 9 dc in each row therefore we will need either 18 or 36 strands (18 is one strand per stitch on each end of the scarf and 36 for two strands per stitch on each end).<br />
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Fold the strand or strands in half, use your hook to pull through the end stitch from the back. Don't pull it all the way through, just far enough to make a loop. Put the loose ends of the strands through the loop and pull tight. Repeat in each stitch on both ends. Trim with scissors when done so your fringe is nice and even.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lNuK8FSrbdppW0p9_SPtunqQoUmOewz7AYRioyX3ZMSxmcciLAedJ-DwT2LowIaAb59nwZuk4WQGU8zwEcxZLlHmBiz7lCnKBmbkS5ri_nLD0CzR1s_kTnsErOgHt8OoLPp7pp0ENGl2/s1600/bluewaterscarf.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lNuK8FSrbdppW0p9_SPtunqQoUmOewz7AYRioyX3ZMSxmcciLAedJ-DwT2LowIaAb59nwZuk4WQGU8zwEcxZLlHmBiz7lCnKBmbkS5ri_nLD0CzR1s_kTnsErOgHt8OoLPp7pp0ENGl2/s320/bluewaterscarf.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-63328453281572858182012-01-11T13:28:00.000-06:002012-01-11T13:28:03.947-06:00Make Your Own Fleece Dog Ropes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInXZNn4618tzo6dX_PO5bSiwoK_YQ3eo3zvm7RmrK3VyqGi-7lDZ00Lr4wr0VSgz4gDo4tYPtbTHqmlOSKleZ9nSlj5FZOT2avf7YFRtSi4Nhl4P2IyDlq1um1Dk0dfRuyNnyHL1G3MMW/s1600/IMG_8083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInXZNn4618tzo6dX_PO5bSiwoK_YQ3eo3zvm7RmrK3VyqGi-7lDZ00Lr4wr0VSgz4gDo4tYPtbTHqmlOSKleZ9nSlj5FZOT2avf7YFRtSi4Nhl4P2IyDlq1um1Dk0dfRuyNnyHL1G3MMW/s320/IMG_8083.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Up until two days I ago I had 3 dogs, and then Miss Izzy a 5-year old doberman puppy (wow, does she act like a puppy) joined the pack. It's expensive owning this many dogs so I save a little by making my own fleece dog ropes. I can make about 10 for the same price as buying 1.<br />
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I prefer these to standard ropes because, quite frankly, I don't like pulling out rope strings out when the dogs do their business! These have an added advantage of keeping your dogs teeth nice and clean. So clean in fact that our veterinarian asked if we brush our dog's teeth! (Like I have the time or patience for that!!!!)<br />
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<strong>What you need:</strong> <br />
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<strong>Fleece</strong> (buy it on clearance or sale at your local fabric store or online). You're going to want to buy a few yards when it's cheap and keep it on hand. I would guesstimate that you need about 1/2 yard for a large rope toy. I like to buy at least 3 different colors although I was down to only two when I made the rope in the pictures.<br />
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<strong>Scissors or some other cutting tool</strong> (I'm a quilter so I use my rotary cutter but it's totally not necessary)<br />
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That's it.....liking it so far? Good.<br />
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<strong>Step 1:</strong> prep your fabric by washing it and drying it to remove any chemicals from the fabric surface.<br />
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<strong>Step 2: </strong>cut your fabric into strips going from selvedge edge to selvege edge (the selvedge is the part that is on the sides when the fabric is on the bolt, you will be able to tell because the side where it was cut from the bolt is NOT a selvedge edge). How wide you cut your strips will depend on how big of a bone you want, I have big dogs so I go about 2-3 inches wide....if you have a little dog make them narrower but don't go under 1 inch wide or it won't hold up! You will need 6 strips per rope.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzFuS_ojspI-Vj0tiO_IIYdJnreRFbVN0tj9n57RlCeVaOlZPGqwX26MkTyC2gHmfv3x9SYLypsHXFe_noNo2g-Nv98pyF1fAcM3j2Ho56mshKXQBVBctRtkVJW7bjfb3y-qeKP2CxJHK/s1600/IMG_8071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzFuS_ojspI-Vj0tiO_IIYdJnreRFbVN0tj9n57RlCeVaOlZPGqwX26MkTyC2gHmfv3x9SYLypsHXFe_noNo2g-Nv98pyF1fAcM3j2Ho56mshKXQBVBctRtkVJW7bjfb3y-qeKP2CxJHK/s200/IMG_8071.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pile of strips....aren't they lovely</td></tr>
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Don't get too fussy cutting them, it's okay if they aren't perfectly straight or exactly the same width.<br />
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<strong>Step 3:</strong> Take your 6 strips and lay them on top of one another, tie a knot near one end.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3ZiqFDd88DUg5sTSAP6WBCqxYLtJNqnb_CI2MuE5-Kvds-MuqJchvCQGk6P-zdmTF-Pj0rFlGUDmiPF0Q3YsbwPOlc91ARHolD_scyAqCgPIwnhEb_hjUEZsEpNYcWiUcHBOoGiMeTKx/s1600/IMG_8074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3ZiqFDd88DUg5sTSAP6WBCqxYLtJNqnb_CI2MuE5-Kvds-MuqJchvCQGk6P-zdmTF-Pj0rFlGUDmiPF0Q3YsbwPOlc91ARHolD_scyAqCgPIwnhEb_hjUEZsEpNYcWiUcHBOoGiMeTKx/s200/IMG_8074.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tight knot a few inches from the end</td></tr>
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<strong>Step 4: </strong>Begin braiding VERY tightly holding two strips together for each part of the braid, the tighter you braid the longer it will last and the less little pieces of fleece your dog will eat (they will probably eat some but it comes off in small bits and passes right though, their doodoo will be quite colorful though).</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Mk4zWMAwp2UUqj0aIXdu5pwvaHc4FgMcBrEDgNtyNgJWCOC735vNYRdEZqnBpR4Vx4dve0gV0AhXtlv8xZrnAF6ZDuMZiEdcL0s6NymlO7_AvmN-bxfYy_C_WR-nTF38dqieuiqc7x5d/s1600/IMG_8077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Mk4zWMAwp2UUqj0aIXdu5pwvaHc4FgMcBrEDgNtyNgJWCOC735vNYRdEZqnBpR4Vx4dve0gV0AhXtlv8xZrnAF6ZDuMZiEdcL0s6NymlO7_AvmN-bxfYy_C_WR-nTF38dqieuiqc7x5d/s200/IMG_8077.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the tighter the better when you braid!<br />
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<strong>Step 5: </strong>After 4-5 inches of braiding (2-3 if making a small bone) tie two knots using the middle strips and each side. We're basically just securing our braiding to make sure it stays nice and tight and that the fleece doesn't stretch out as fast if used as a tug toy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJZEs0zn296mjfT4GZwPERfIvqhckXt4pBXK0BROmurvY5uVyddZdcvNNlOcNxMFhzaeJtCnGekzhdPXUfxrCfjQxeSjFlRTGg2uVBswIBieeIK8TgpK7xy34eugLUJWrC8yNtqOZiWsm/s1600/IMG_8080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJZEs0zn296mjfT4GZwPERfIvqhckXt4pBXK0BROmurvY5uVyddZdcvNNlOcNxMFhzaeJtCnGekzhdPXUfxrCfjQxeSjFlRTGg2uVBswIBieeIK8TgpK7xy34eugLUJWrC8yNtqOZiWsm/s200/IMG_8080.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two knots to secure the braiding nice and tight</td></tr>
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<strong>Step 6:</strong> Braid another 2 inches or so and then tie another pair of knots as in Step 5. This is creating a nice tight core area where we will make a center knot later.</div>
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<strong>Step 7:</strong> Braid for another 4-5 inches and tie off with a large knot just like you made at the beginning, I sometimes will tie a smaller knot with a couple of strands just to make sure my braiding doesn't loosen up while I'm tying this knot. Pull it as tight as you can get it!</div>
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<strong>Step 8: </strong>Tie a knot in the middle where your two smaller knots are. This adds strength and durability to the finished item and protects your hands a little more when playing tug. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tie a knot in the center</td></tr>
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<strong>Step 9: </strong>Trim both ends to be nice and neat. All done!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BdxbpHWXZfBlkGiWKPgjCtNvyyPHvrQu_jbBvOtnO80oin2lMtMNxwV8RgtHRSz-vjrxShjKQkPSwinpY61QrRLgxyaQB0I1B0oBUlPX596qhO7l_Z2cUW6hdowx18hSX-1ci05v-82t/s1600/izzywithrope.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BdxbpHWXZfBlkGiWKPgjCtNvyyPHvrQu_jbBvOtnO80oin2lMtMNxwV8RgtHRSz-vjrxShjKQkPSwinpY61QrRLgxyaQB0I1B0oBUlPX596qhO7l_Z2cUW6hdowx18hSX-1ci05v-82t/s320/izzywithrope.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Izzy loves the new fleece rope toy!</td></tr>
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</div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-46934005616391427532012-01-07T22:31:00.000-06:002012-01-21T11:07:14.376-06:00Vi's Shell Headband - Free Crochet PatternTonight I polled my Facebook fans for an idea for a free pattern for this blog. Apparently everyone was out partying and I got two suggestions. This is Vi's Shell Headband named after the daughter of my cousin Karen who suggested a headband pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-_GTlX05wg8MegWpsYMM6hSLEMGDWi89uAjuvRd8_cOPacdUy0SyMUe2AMfPdhKuekYA7LVt9Bh88mwKV1E-XoyMnABfgJDIb7_3Oto2pX0e8WcQJm3vpvzYC7KUnOgJNs8Y6Vr3el-_/s1600/IMG_8032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-_GTlX05wg8MegWpsYMM6hSLEMGDWi89uAjuvRd8_cOPacdUy0SyMUe2AMfPdhKuekYA7LVt9Bh88mwKV1E-XoyMnABfgJDIb7_3Oto2pX0e8WcQJm3vpvzYC7KUnOgJNs8Y6Vr3el-_/s320/IMG_8032.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This will fit infants through school-aged children. I can stretch mine to fit me but it's a tight fit and my yarn is strechier than normal cotton yarn.<br />
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<strong>Materials:</strong><br />
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A small amount of cotton yarn (I used Nashua's Cilantro cotton blend yarn, this yarn is super stretchy and has great stitch definition)<br />
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G hook <br />
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Tapestry Needle<br />
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Optional: yarn of choice for flower decoration <br />
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<strong>Abbreviations:</strong><br />
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fdc - foundation double crochet <br />
st- stitch<br />
sl st- slip stitch<br />
dc- double crochet<br />
ch- chain<br />
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<strong>Special Stitches:</strong><br />
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shell stitch - 5 dc in the same stitch<br />
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foundation double crochet (fdc) - this is a chainless foundation stitch which makes for a much stretchier finished item which is ideal for headbands. I can't explain it very well but Teri over at Diamond Crochet & Crafts did a great tutorial which you can find here <a href="http://diamondcrochetcrafts.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-do-foundation-double-crochet.html">http://diamondcrochetcrafts.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-do-foundation-double-crochet.html</a><br />
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<strong>Instructions:</strong><br />
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Row 1: Do 30 fdc stitches (count the beginning ch 3 as one of the stitches). Turn. (there is no turning chain)<br />
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Row 2: Skip 2 st, *shell stitch in next st, skip st, sl st in next, skip st*, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.<br />
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Turn your work 1/4 turn so that the end is facing up. Sl st in in side of the beginning ch 3 of the foundation row.<br />
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Row 3: repeat row 2 stitching into bottom of the foundation row.</div>
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At the end of row 3 do not finish off, instead fold right sides together and slip stitch the two ends together. </div>
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Finish off and weave in ends.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneJMcoQS_Y8dC-M90fqsgcOlYhnLXVMAdqiNI7elZDrR0wPvqzv4TDk5TO3RdR57rgTGOD4fVKfwT-rK_zXIFNT9WHbSGcYuoE0kAYodheB5HKGVarykMc7tuIouRhU4HarMivU_XvWdJ/s1600/IMG_8031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneJMcoQS_Y8dC-M90fqsgcOlYhnLXVMAdqiNI7elZDrR0wPvqzv4TDk5TO3RdR57rgTGOD4fVKfwT-rK_zXIFNT9WHbSGcYuoE0kAYodheB5HKGVarykMc7tuIouRhU4HarMivU_XvWdJ/s320/IMG_8031.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Use as is or add your choice of decoration. I added a nice and easy flower from one of my favorite blogs. You can find it here <a href="http://neannersshop.blogspot.com/2010/11/super-duper-easy-perfect-posy.html">http://neannersshop.blogspot.com/2010/11/super-duper-easy-perfect-posy.html</a>. You can glue the flower to an aligator clip and switch out decorations to match outfits.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-39848133202968857362011-12-31T17:12:00.000-06:002012-01-05T21:15:52.692-06:00Anatomy of a Rag Quilt - a step by step tutorialRag quilts are a fun, fast, and easy way to take a step into the world of quilting. Unlike a traditional quilt which can take weeks or months to complete a rag quilt can be easily completed in a weekend. So what is a rag quilt? A rag quilt traditionally was made from rags or scrap fabric as the name implies. While a traditional quilt has all it's seams neatly tucked away inside of the quilt a rag quilt is sewn with exposed seams which are then cut into to produce a soft, frayed effect between blocks. With each washing the seams will fray and soften more making it a wonderful quilt to curl up with on a cold winter day!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBxdq73BIuUwAAGoBVNWl0_mxe-ihRB_7ExRrhS-ppxcIEk0-y38_A4M4E8oVK3kVcbjOJqHHp3kGzeyjHQtiwHD6h1B8S0e2C6YKXhA0PHbCYzttZi3sVR2NZIGqM2j012lLAZMaI5mv/s1600/385954_215692378501129_200344133369287_507922_906012904_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBxdq73BIuUwAAGoBVNWl0_mxe-ihRB_7ExRrhS-ppxcIEk0-y38_A4M4E8oVK3kVcbjOJqHHp3kGzeyjHQtiwHD6h1B8S0e2C6YKXhA0PHbCYzttZi3sVR2NZIGqM2j012lLAZMaI5mv/s320/385954_215692378501129_200344133369287_507922_906012904_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 1: Decide on your quilt size, there are some great references out on the web which will help you decide what the finished measurements need to be for different bed sizes. I usually do lap quilts which are about 48" x 56".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 2: Decide on a square size for your pieces. You can also use other shapes besides squares, in fact, rag quilts can be made with just about any traditional quilt pattern. I used 6 1/2" squares because I have a template that size but I've also done larger squares (9 1/2") for my queen sized bed. Remember that the seam allowance for a rag quilt is larger than for a traditional quilt and can be anywhere between 1/2" and 1" (personal preference, I like my seams a little smaller so I use 1/2" seam allowances, if you want a fuller frayed seam use either 3/4" or 1"). Your batting will be cut into a smaller square so that it is not in the exposed seam allowance. Because I use a 1/2" seam allowance on each side of my 6 1/2" squares, my batting will only be cut into 5 1/2" squares.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 3: Do the math! My least favorite part but a necessary evil. Since I was doing a lap quilt I used 63 squares (7 squares by 9 squares layout). Each square is 6 1/2" and 1/2" on each side needs to be subtracted for the seam allowance leaving me with 5 1/2" finished squares. So, my finished quilt will measure 38 1/2" by 49 1/2". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So let's say you want to make a quilt for a twin sized bed which has a mattress size of 39" x 75", you will want your quilt bigger than that so that it hangs down enough to cover the depth of the mattress, say 50" x 85". We then need to take those numbers and divide by the finished square size to determine how many squares you need to make. 50/5.5=9.09 (we'll just call it 9) and 85/5.5=15.45 (we'll round up to 16). We will need 144 squares to make a twin sized quilt (9 x 16). This means we will need 144 squares each of the top fabric, backing fabric, and batting.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 4: Choose your fabrics. Rag quilts are traditionally made with cotton which frays nicely. I've also made them from flannel which is extra warm and snuggly but the exposed seams will not fray as much. Some also like to use fleece which will not fray at all and the exposed seams will be more like fringe. The quilt in the pictures was made using 24 different fat quarters of 100% cotton plaid fabrics. I chose lots of pastel colors as this was made for my 8 year-old neice. (I only used 1/2 of each fat quarter). You will also need fabric for the backing and some sort of filling (I use batting but a lot of people like to use a layer of flannel as batting).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Let's use our numbers from the twin bed in step 3 and figure out how much fabric we would need. We determined that we needed 144 squares each measuring 6 1/2". If we purchase cotton that is 42" wide we can cut 6 squares accross the width of the fabric. So 144/6 is 24, 24 x 6.5 is 156. We need a 156" x 42" of fabric. A yard is 36" so we need 4 1/3 yards each of the fabric for the top and backing. Batting can simply be purchased in the bed size and then cut into squares. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 5: Gather your supplies. In addition to your fabric and batting you will need: scissors (spring-loaded scissors will save your hands!), rotary cutter, cutting mat, square template (I purchased a 6.5" square for less than $10 but you can also make your own from thick cardboard), thread, sewing machine, iron & ironing board.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkqXMpCXmKlhdA9Fr8GFoBsIKV1gCXJ4L8t2c-IYUTsaaMtEWpe10zJ6T3w6YXPors9vIkQqT2KFK0u-LuDfDocDAFFOk8ucsaH994xlB94SIMg2zVxIAa_VlO9w6URjip9D2neGlh-Rp/s1600/IMG_7410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkqXMpCXmKlhdA9Fr8GFoBsIKV1gCXJ4L8t2c-IYUTsaaMtEWpe10zJ6T3w6YXPors9vIkQqT2KFK0u-LuDfDocDAFFOk8ucsaH994xlB94SIMg2zVxIAa_VlO9w6URjip9D2neGlh-Rp/s320/IMG_7410.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em>These spring-loaded scissors are made especially for rag quilting.</em></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em></em></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 6: Cut your squares. First iron your fabric but I do not recommend prewashing the fabric for rag quilting. Using your cutting mat, rotary cutter, and template cut the needed number of squares from your top fabric, batting, and backing fabric. You can usually cut 4-8 layers at a time depending on how sharp your rotary cutter is and how thick your fabric is. This is tedious so I do it on the floor in front of a good movie!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 7: Determine your layout. I use my living room floor. The pictured quilt used a random layout of the 24 different fabrics where my only concern was not having the same fabric directly next to each other. My backing fabric on this quilt was plain white muslin so I only needed to layout the front, you can make a two-sided design. When making a two-sided design I layout my backing design first, then layer a square of batting on each and then my top design. This way I have my square "sandwiches" ready to go.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 8: If you didn't already do it in step 7 make your quilt "sandwiches". You will layer your backing square with the right side down, batting, and then your top fabric with the right side facing up. Your wrong sides of both fabrics will face the batting. You can pin the layers if you wish. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTJ35E8Sc5YlIriExBJzCHNOQYh9WGdNmwHUfi8h57XkqfyDQMsv8LQwqoYIRNNGX-16PY68q8Q5bcUEjSpoXhQG2IUpnhf_RZ6fbJuCrU9U_6JVIoY6x93C6mRPGmYcFlW8Hs1a5EHsr/s1600/IMG_7402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTJ35E8Sc5YlIriExBJzCHNOQYh9WGdNmwHUfi8h57XkqfyDQMsv8LQwqoYIRNNGX-16PY68q8Q5bcUEjSpoXhQG2IUpnhf_RZ6fbJuCrU9U_6JVIoY6x93C6mRPGmYcFlW8Hs1a5EHsr/s320/IMG_7402.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em>Squares need to be sandwiched with the backing, batting, and top layer. The batting is cut smaller so that it won't be in the exposed seams.</em></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em></em></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 9: Quilt your sandwiched squares. I usually just use my sewing machine and a straight stitch to make an X over the square, the pictured quilt has only a single diagonal accross the square that I used to create a quilted design on the finished quilt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSdEhrjUNXUXLhQaMCbRjeWu0AU-qcraJLdf-BWzwTGTNgzpKjritluw6oGOBaI1HXpQT2Jwdu78Hh2rtQg0jkxZ0b8jlJvqleE-GM6KMkNeZ_vHJGC637cfJ2QGA2QJhRT0M5-8ZUAyc/s1600/IMG_7403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSdEhrjUNXUXLhQaMCbRjeWu0AU-qcraJLdf-BWzwTGTNgzpKjritluw6oGOBaI1HXpQT2Jwdu78Hh2rtQg0jkxZ0b8jlJvqleE-GM6KMkNeZ_vHJGC637cfJ2QGA2QJhRT0M5-8ZUAyc/s320/IMG_7403.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em>A single diagonal line sewn from corner to corner through all 3 layers.</em></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtvsVDEhYQn9XRUceKm5gryV9232dyjKYzqdW_Dnshivsfzlao-_rJn4sEHZw_74M_b6Zvmqr3LBJKdXyKpKhVpdbh5ZGy6mxS4mSPQ0N8uClpP2nQT2JhFV3aC66xU9bopbCcsAzJKpJc/s1600/IMG_7424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtvsVDEhYQn9XRUceKm5gryV9232dyjKYzqdW_Dnshivsfzlao-_rJn4sEHZw_74M_b6Zvmqr3LBJKdXyKpKhVpdbh5ZGy6mxS4mSPQ0N8uClpP2nQT2JhFV3aC66xU9bopbCcsAzJKpJc/s320/IMG_7424.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><em>This photo shows a traditional stitched X through the 3 fabric layers.</em></div><br />
Step 10: Take your pile of quilted squares and double-check your layout. As I mentioned above I wanted mine to create a secondary square pattern with the diagonal quilting so I had to lay this out again. I then pile the squares up for each row with the square on the left side on top. This makes sewing rows of squares together a no-brainer.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMyDMALoDuKVJ6plYOytqOXS5AGO02uNm_XW2u-1G6RoYdOP1Woi7SUcus7Hkq6y7BOAz1FvdtdoGSXIGtRrXif6su4PLR2f_QSpz4bMp5sgOC5n3Ia20J6vGRffJZkfWmc5KbiWuCyanL/s1600/IMG_7409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMyDMALoDuKVJ6plYOytqOXS5AGO02uNm_XW2u-1G6RoYdOP1Woi7SUcus7Hkq6y7BOAz1FvdtdoGSXIGtRrXif6su4PLR2f_QSpz4bMp5sgOC5n3Ia20J6vGRffJZkfWmc5KbiWuCyanL/s320/IMG_7409.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><em></em><br />
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;"><em>Each row of squares is piled on top of one another. I turn each row a bit when stacking so that I can easily tell when I need to move to the next row.</em></div><div align="center" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Step 11: Sew each row of squares together with your top sides facing out and your back sides together (opposite of normal sewing). When I finish a row I lay it out on my living room floor so that I can easily keep the rows in the correct order. Remember to use the seam allowance that you decided upon.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqx_Z_nxNx_cGYaSt31NzMJLZF1zkHadE9jY9Be-l5hwgIk7-Zd7AkRA8Cx99otIs87Lkfm8lrTs7ervJTkxHru2P3RYMPcpa-a_YB_d2O2AhlsIW0mDb5b0v-A3uM526BXg0qZB1qNa0C/s1600/IMG_7415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqx_Z_nxNx_cGYaSt31NzMJLZF1zkHadE9jY9Be-l5hwgIk7-Zd7AkRA8Cx99otIs87Lkfm8lrTs7ervJTkxHru2P3RYMPcpa-a_YB_d2O2AhlsIW0mDb5b0v-A3uM526BXg0qZB1qNa0C/s320/IMG_7415.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sew with right sides facing OUT</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;">Step 12: Line up your finished rows and sew together (pin as needed). You can either sew two rows together and then sew the next two together or just keep sewing the next row onto your previously sewn rows. This is personal preference and may depend on how much space you have at your machine. Do whatever works best for you. I personally just keep adding the next row on. When all the rows are sewn together we will add our seam allowance to the outside by stitching around the outside of the quilt with the same seam allowance used (1/2" in my case). This replaces the binding process used to finish the edges of a traditional quilt. When done trim all of your threads.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Step 13: Once your quilt is completely sewn together it's time to work the ragging magic on all those exposed seams. Using your spring-loaded scissors snip through the seam allowances almost to the seam (take care not to cut through the seam) every 1/4". This doesn't have to be exact, just estimate the 1/4". Get comfy because this will take awhile.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOYZfo5BeoFOW72JXlHtEXbU1Pn3rID11a1qC2LoKl6lWsFsZAG5xeyB0QpAr-56cXo0lc7Z9WW-Djkq26G_6xGaZZ1PSCsmb6KdPTnsVH0TWQUnxNJ3nTbpRAtfb61puYMJDjq5cqBKc/s1600/IMG_7413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOYZfo5BeoFOW72JXlHtEXbU1Pn3rID11a1qC2LoKl6lWsFsZAG5xeyB0QpAr-56cXo0lc7Z9WW-Djkq26G_6xGaZZ1PSCsmb6KdPTnsVH0TWQUnxNJ3nTbpRAtfb61puYMJDjq5cqBKc/s320/IMG_7413.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what your seam will look like after you cut into it but before washing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;">Step 14: Now that all your seams have been cut (including the seam allowance around the outside, it's time to wash the quilt. No need to use soap or softener. Use a normal cycle with warm water and dry on normal as well. You will want to check your lint filters frequently as this produces a lot of lint. Some people prefer to go use a commercial machine at a laundromat for this.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Step 15: Enjoy!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dbF1tgyjPVLr5ZVoeaj0CBvDqXiTRGVnnkag1SpBFgo9SKGS8gOJeJtq_gvnphdBT-G5mgdtiskfPPG_9dtsZ-LPLL4BegBJ1Im4Lm9M2jXMbq5gBZOHQAJmmj4qdafXKLilhWf1-hCP/s1600/IMG_7437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dbF1tgyjPVLr5ZVoeaj0CBvDqXiTRGVnnkag1SpBFgo9SKGS8gOJeJtq_gvnphdBT-G5mgdtiskfPPG_9dtsZ-LPLL4BegBJ1Im4Lm9M2jXMbq5gBZOHQAJmmj4qdafXKLilhWf1-hCP/s320/IMG_7437.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-77508696593205758572011-12-30T19:26:00.000-06:002011-12-30T19:26:37.198-06:00Crochet Terms: Front Post and Back Post Stitch TutorialMany patterns refer to making front post or back post stitches. These confuse many, many newer crocheters or even intermediate ones who haven't come accross this terminology. So what are front post and back post stitches and why do we care? <br />
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A front post stitch is a stitch made by inserting the hook from the front and around the post (the up and down part) of the stitch in the previous row instead of through the loops of the stitch in the previous row. A back post stitch is made by inserting the hook from the back side and around the post of the stitch in the previous row. The stitch is then worked the same as if the hook had been inserted through the loops of the stitch in the previous row.<br />
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These are often referred to in crochet patterns as a fp or bp with the stitch name. For example, a front post double crochet is a fpdc.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3Ni6JTXfadYNr4I3T-ebIYIi03-iBZFnE9ssBTwyyRM8v1fOv3rfLXwVKAo4c6dQ3FclvZpXMCpou2amyf1k1Dm8k2dhaanWA6y8OVvujeZfbyFY_GEJBeWvgCykKeg4Apkao_Vo5-CX/s1600/IMG_7897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3Ni6JTXfadYNr4I3T-ebIYIi03-iBZFnE9ssBTwyyRM8v1fOv3rfLXwVKAo4c6dQ3FclvZpXMCpou2amyf1k1Dm8k2dhaanWA6y8OVvujeZfbyFY_GEJBeWvgCykKeg4Apkao_Vo5-CX/s320/IMG_7897.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> bpdc-back post double crochet (insert the hook around the post of the stitch in the prior row by inserting the hook from the back and around the stitch)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnYPbcz67oOaq3y7ZnBgXIqU5NI6v-5e9FBQNPkJIVN7EaSGNIrAuUtT2Cwy2OVYHQxCQCVINqyQly5gz2G1PgWRsglh4TFwQm5g9K_ajTSPg83EVy5QYOYFRIti9ztgYVstO81YygDIX/s1600/IMG_7896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnYPbcz67oOaq3y7ZnBgXIqU5NI6v-5e9FBQNPkJIVN7EaSGNIrAuUtT2Cwy2OVYHQxCQCVINqyQly5gz2G1PgWRsglh4TFwQm5g9K_ajTSPg83EVy5QYOYFRIti9ztgYVstO81YygDIX/s320/IMG_7896.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> fpdc- front post double crochet (insert the hook from the front and around the post of the stitch in the prior row)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">What do we use front and back post stitches for? The answer is purely cosmetic...it produces a woven looking texture to the crocheted fabric.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-79150109062261023462011-06-26T22:20:00.000-05:002011-07-01T09:17:56.075-05:00Free Crochet Case Pattern (Sewing)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1E2JZitJ1A0Me3NmXQiclBr6oOFFyUtepDcgJqsS_rmLAGEPvfOJNZlE11SwgSu60PEeJ6qvl97QpTze6dsGjrkJSTMTC1T4j2llRjs4IiF9Kc_Z2f62eb6gOyVScC8E0CL92BBwqNk0/s1600/IMG_6102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1E2JZitJ1A0Me3NmXQiclBr6oOFFyUtepDcgJqsS_rmLAGEPvfOJNZlE11SwgSu60PEeJ6qvl97QpTze6dsGjrkJSTMTC1T4j2llRjs4IiF9Kc_Z2f62eb6gOyVScC8E0CL92BBwqNk0/s200/IMG_6102.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEGNx0TiMn-QunYYwdymt6kGVViEEoGSqvgwigD_38TtNxSmszYFOge0ImmJRBYZjZYMeN5o6_6091msovQ_quAin0wXhy3Ad1ZCsHBcaRT3tBHPy8BmPvGUgIRbaGg5-NkwHrQKvBQEE/s1600/IMG_6103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEGNx0TiMn-QunYYwdymt6kGVViEEoGSqvgwigD_38TtNxSmszYFOge0ImmJRBYZjZYMeN5o6_6091msovQ_quAin0wXhy3Ad1ZCsHBcaRT3tBHPy8BmPvGUgIRbaGg5-NkwHrQKvBQEE/s200/IMG_6103.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Hard as it might be to believe I felt the need to replace my half finished scarf crochet needle case. It was functional but not pretty to be sure. I had some beautiful fabric precuts fat quarters and charm packs from the Sunkissed collection by Moda that I had been meaning to use and this seemed like an ideal project. It's a quick project and not too hard if you can sew in a straight line. I have included a link to the pattern as the instructions have a lot of pictures and I didn't want the blog to take forever to load.</div><div align="left"><br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YPzSKntK8j335du0kffUjnLGWUt5FeTGl00NJhpniS8/edit?hl=en_US&authkey=CLjL2o0D#">Click Here For The Crochet Case Pattern</a><br />
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Now in the process of creating the pattern and my finished case I learned a life lesson. Mistakes happen to everyone and you just have to be persistent. See my oops......<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcEDn545CPhRZmz8hHRYca8L8lTG1bpBJN3RMwWkTe4oqKbSRDRtCnbxdRphYuZD4K8EX5kiYLD7_5jBR_ew4Cy8h37wtqbWHCzo8_bIyyDiXAuEBpiiN6yDPVVjd3xwsZ_25LwcIB5NJ/s1600/IMG_6085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcEDn545CPhRZmz8hHRYca8L8lTG1bpBJN3RMwWkTe4oqKbSRDRtCnbxdRphYuZD4K8EX5kiYLD7_5jBR_ew4Cy8h37wtqbWHCzo8_bIyyDiXAuEBpiiN6yDPVVjd3xwsZ_25LwcIB5NJ/s200/IMG_6085.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oops #1 Right sides together or you end up with your seam on the wrong side!</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48kI4k_aZp47EhhuhR65m_qX-kDO5DmQUMzliu53mgAfxOrVRKcRJlwhGg896i-Zh4u3gZVVlJlHwX9Q0GwMw8SOQxeFYyW3oe73-qHbd5EKCIfJh5BNM4uToTn9NCxCSrqjfXg2X17J0/s1600/IMG_6095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48kI4k_aZp47EhhuhR65m_qX-kDO5DmQUMzliu53mgAfxOrVRKcRJlwhGg896i-Zh4u3gZVVlJlHwX9Q0GwMw8SOQxeFYyW3oe73-qHbd5EKCIfJh5BNM4uToTn9NCxCSrqjfXg2X17J0/s200/IMG_6095.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oops #2 When using the sewing machine keep the rest of your project out of the way!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Maybe the real lesson is that I should go buy a seam ripper! Oh well, mistakes happen and it still turned out fine.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div><div align="left"></div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-19200407142365870702011-06-22T08:36:00.000-05:002012-01-08T09:52:08.327-06:00Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover Crochet PatternFirst, let me start by saying that there are some absolutely beautiful and amazing patterns for toilet roll covers out there! However my decorating style is simple and contemporary and my house is filled with boys so I couldn't really see making a frilly doll cover or something covered with flowers. I wanted a more clean look but still didn't want to spend money on one of those fancy brushed nickel TP covers. That's how this pattern came about, necessity is the mother of invention they say!<br />
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This is an easy pattern and would be a great project for a beginner who is ready to make the leap from crocheting rectangles to working in rounds.<br />
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<u>Simple Toilet Paper Roll Cover</u><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0u9-1_vlhVH3GZssQwPU9MQYn-7y35rji8gZcVV_XoTOskeUo1QzfoyVy9ao5BS_GsadQO7BShcEB1n5vXZ0fXnMdOXuPO9q-42wQdtlc-bug1vuY7-a005zLGMbX3XtWgPpbhKm2_5j/s1600/IMG_6033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0u9-1_vlhVH3GZssQwPU9MQYn-7y35rji8gZcVV_XoTOskeUo1QzfoyVy9ao5BS_GsadQO7BShcEB1n5vXZ0fXnMdOXuPO9q-42wQdtlc-bug1vuY7-a005zLGMbX3XtWgPpbhKm2_5j/s200/IMG_6033.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Materials:<br />
<ul>
<li>2 coordinating colors of worsted weight yarn (you will use less than one 50g skein of your primary color and only a few yards of the contrast color). I like a high percentage of acrylic fiber for this project since you will want to wash it occasionally and don't want the shrinkage that can happen with cotton and wool.</li>
<li>size H crochet hook (5.00 mm)</li>
<li>tapestry needle (if you like to use one for weaving in ends, I just use my hook most of the time)</li>
</ul>
Notes:<br />
<ul>
<li>I use American crochet terms</li>
<li>Keep a roll of the toilet paper you use most often handy to ensure a proper fit, I have designed this with a double roll of 2-ply tissue. If you use single rolls you will need to omit a row and if you use the mega rolls then you will need to add a row on the top of the cover.</li>
</ul>
Abbreviations:<br />
ch - chain<br />
sl st - slip stitch<br />
dc - double crochet<br />
sc - single crochet<br />
rd - round<br />
st - stitch<br />
<br />
Foundation- with your main color ch 10 and join to 1st chain with a sl st to make a ring. You want a finger sized hole in the middle of your ring, this makes it easier to slide the cover off when you're ready to use this roll.<br />
<br />
Rd 1 - ch 3 (always counts as first dc in this pattern), dc in next ch, dc each ch around and join to last ch in ch 3 with a sl st. <br />
<br />
Rd 2 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, 2 dc in each dc of prior row, join to ch 3 with sl st. <br />
<br />
Rd 3 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.<br />
<br />
Rd 4 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch3, * dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.<br />
<br />
Omit Rd 5 for a single roll sized cover.<br />
<br />
Rd 5 - ch 3, dc in same st as ch 3, *dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to * to the end of the rd, join with a sl st to ch 3.<br />
<br />
For a mega roll cover add a round following the same pattern putting 4 single dc between each increase stitch that has 2 dc in the stitch.<br />
<br />
Rd 6 - ch 1, sc in the front loop only of each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st. This round will fall where the side and top meet and going through the front loop only gives it a clean edge. (If you're not sure what is meant by front loop only you can go to the previous post which explains this technique)<br />
<br />
Rd 7-12 - ch 3, dc in each stitch around, join to ch 3 with a sl stitch. <br />
<br />
Now is a good time to check your fit, your cover should end about 1/4 to 1/2" above the end of the roll.<br />
<br />
Rd 13 - switch to your contrast color. ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to ch 1 with a sl st.<br />
<br />
Rd 14 - ch 1, sc in each stich around, join to ch 1 with a sl st. Fasten off.<br />
<br />
Check fit and add an additional round of sc if needed. Weave in all ends.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-56503274909855159902011-06-21T18:15:00.000-05:002011-12-30T18:59:19.123-06:00Crochet Terms: Front Loop and Back LoopAs a frequent user of free online patterns I have noticed that there is almost always a comment or question when a pattern indicates to crochet only through the front loop or back loop. I know I didn't get it at first and my work never turned out looking quite right. It turns out I was always crocheting in the back loop without even knowing it! Okay, so what are these and why should we crocheters care? <br />
<br />
When making a standard crochet stich you insert your hook into the stitch and through both loops of the stitch as shown below...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBx07xQAWsJZjsKI0LHI_YGQI4N9EJhJ29hccHVq_OjeccfU34HoebeKyWG98cgzYpK9PXAdJRZtn9EHxtuzdsqz6xpE1NDOVH1OINIH1x_eBIxjTA392Q8sgociVYQVHMxv5mzbCfl22/s1600/IMG_6024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBx07xQAWsJZjsKI0LHI_YGQI4N9EJhJ29hccHVq_OjeccfU34HoebeKyWG98cgzYpK9PXAdJRZtn9EHxtuzdsqz6xpE1NDOVH1OINIH1x_eBIxjTA392Q8sgociVYQVHMxv5mzbCfl22/s320/IMG_6024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">standard crochet stitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>This will produce a nice smooth finished project, but sometimes we don't want a smooth finish piece and this is where the posts come into play. <br />
<br />
When you are instructed to use the front loop you insert your hook through the front loop of the stitch only.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmMN8N6zx5gbNhURIc5NUtkPwV8Owq80dcsqz5gVR_QCE8gdDxxrIvVUEvV46zJGFEgEhGDPGzHaH_wxtHqoZa4ijepOlVAq6wppaGVnOcFNNNIACLcDZf7u3dgjrWld-o9OXYPmeR_hk/s1600/IMG_6021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmMN8N6zx5gbNhURIc5NUtkPwV8Owq80dcsqz5gVR_QCE8gdDxxrIvVUEvV46zJGFEgEhGDPGzHaH_wxtHqoZa4ijepOlVAq6wppaGVnOcFNNNIACLcDZf7u3dgjrWld-o9OXYPmeR_hk/s320/IMG_6021.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front loop (insert hook only through the front loop of the stitch in the previous row)<br />
<br />
<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Using the back loop only is just the opposite, you insert your hook only into the back loop of the stitch in the previous row. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcad0C2p-Unu4ooVFpwjUjisftv1kbdCnPuK5AuYAxQhSYvmeT4MJSmi27vvkAXsdzaTf9aHgOQb3ldoJTMK98qWIQRJERnxA7q8vKmafOdbCCSmvbZx__S_7UPLfgkyMMKVuhtVcdyGW/s1600/IMG_6022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcad0C2p-Unu4ooVFpwjUjisftv1kbdCnPuK5AuYAxQhSYvmeT4MJSmi27vvkAXsdzaTf9aHgOQb3ldoJTMK98qWIQRJERnxA7q8vKmafOdbCCSmvbZx__S_7UPLfgkyMMKVuhtVcdyGW/s320/IMG_6022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">back loop (insert your hook through only the back loop of the stitch in the previous row)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So, what do these do to your finished project and why do we need them? Using the front or back loop creates texture in your project. Below is a photo of a green afghan that was worked in the back loop only which creates a ridge every two rows on the front and back of the project. Alternating rows of front loop and back loop stitches will create ribbing, therefore you will use these often when making socks, gloves, and hats. The ridges can be used for a decorative purpose or can be very practical, for example the ridges on my crocheted kitchen scrubber really help with getting the goo up that my boys leave on my table.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh163n38-CxZntOwKo0LvWfb7fiAtATyzjtZ0DM21aYAa3vBe1lXZaIATo2vO4Rw7lhTGYqGigRvivdTgyteUc3MB5_tnTw47ePTlT04GjMbbNAlx9u0M57-T7RA5bd9nLfrMB9WULIl9iA/s1600/IMG_6025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh163n38-CxZntOwKo0LvWfb7fiAtATyzjtZ0DM21aYAa3vBe1lXZaIATo2vO4Rw7lhTGYqGigRvivdTgyteUc3MB5_tnTw47ePTlT04GjMbbNAlx9u0M57-T7RA5bd9nLfrMB9WULIl9iA/s320/IMG_6025.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">decorative ridge created by working all stitches in the front or back loop only</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7VyYul_4hI3atUJNuSC9DD2QNnvm4fZnJNzhA0ANPHNjcXEeEx-mlVN6_ZnBL0vpqqJzvC9EGmuuGus5a3Sj1dLTb6ThcT1v459gGvxfR42Hnu6y58N7QxlWjPEwzch91K4rDXMkrAQU/s1600/IMG_6027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7VyYul_4hI3atUJNuSC9DD2QNnvm4fZnJNzhA0ANPHNjcXEeEx-mlVN6_ZnBL0vpqqJzvC9EGmuuGus5a3Sj1dLTb6ThcT1v459gGvxfR42Hnu6y58N7QxlWjPEwzch91K4rDXMkrAQU/s320/IMG_6027.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">deep ribbing created by alternating rows in the front and back loops</td></tr>
</tbody></table>There is one other place where I have come accross these stiches and that is when creating a nice neat corner on a project, one row done all in the front post or back loop will create a nice neat edge and cause the project to fold naturally.<br />
<br />
Any questions? Use the comments section and I will respond as quickly as possible!CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-37419473586432041272011-06-19T10:38:00.000-05:002011-06-19T10:38:34.342-05:00Pattern Altering - Felted Crochet Hobo Bag PatternThe more comfortable I get with crocheting the more I see the need to alter existing patterns to suit my own needs. For example, I made a market bag a couple of weeks ago for going to our local farmers' market. I used a free pattern from the Lion Brand website and other than adding some colored stripes and a decorative flower I stuck with the written instructions. When it was finished I liked the shape of it (not sure about my color choices though!) and wanted a handbag that would be similar but smaller. After searching the web I found nothing that quite suited my purpose so I decided to alter the existing pattern to meet my needs....my new pattern is below.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMaj01_Y0zwyc1PbqeOzf28SWLtYhXRJwC3CSSEtKNs-jmoIUEwxJYyruM-C6mOkY33ejCFleGcSR0fLgbpz9jzWP4Oh3BQERyjXjrVvZejShRf-BKyhMXzPQY5IiaX0UMATafzsrcl66/s1600/IMG_6011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMaj01_Y0zwyc1PbqeOzf28SWLtYhXRJwC3CSSEtKNs-jmoIUEwxJYyruM-C6mOkY33ejCFleGcSR0fLgbpz9jzWP4Oh3BQERyjXjrVvZejShRf-BKyhMXzPQY5IiaX0UMATafzsrcl66/s320/IMG_6011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left is my uh.."colorful" market bag and on the right is the felted hobo bag</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Materials:<br />
<ul><li>chunky wool yarn, I used 3 1/2 skeins of Chunky Wool Blast by Filatura Lanarota. You can substitute any bulky yarn with a high wool content so long as it is not meant to be machine washable. </li>
<li>size I (5.50 mm) crochet hook</li>
<li>stitch markers or scrap pieces of yarn in a color that contrasts with your project yarn</li>
<li>1 button if you want to add a closure to the handbag</li>
<li>tapestry needle</li>
<li>sewing thread and needle if you are adding a button</li>
</ul>Gauge: Not super important for this project as you can adjust the size as needed by adding rows or stitches, remember to work tightly so that it will felt well without having holes. Remember that your bag will shrink between 30 and 40 percent with felting.<br />
<br />
Special Notes: I use American crochet terminology and abbreviations. The stitches are worked in the space between the stitches not in the actual stitch loops, this adds strength to the finished product. You can turn or not turn while working in rounds, since we are felting this bag it won't make much difference in the finished product. Don't worry too much if your counts don't come out perfect, your bag will still work out fine!<br />
<br />
Special Stitch: dc2tog - this is a double crochet decrease stitch. Yo, insert hook in the space between the next two stitches, yo again, pull a loop through, yo and pull through two loops. Yo, insert into next space, yo, pull a loop through, yo and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through remaining loops on the hook.<br />
<br />
Abbreviations: <br />
yo- yarn over<br />
sc- single crochet<br />
dc- double crochet<br />
st- stitch<br />
sl st- slip stitch<br />
sp- space<br />
ch- chain<br />
rd- round<br />
<br />
To begin ch 3 and join with a sl st to form a circle.<br />
<br />
Rd1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc 11 times in the middle of the circle, join with a sl st in the space between the ch 3 and the first dc. (12 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd2: Ch 3, dc in same space as you sl st join from the previous rd, dc 2 times in the space between each st around the circle, sl st to sp between ch 2 and first dc. (24 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd3: Ch 3, dc in same space as join, *dc in next sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until you finish this round, sl st in sp between ch and 1st dc. (36 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd4: Ch 3, dc in same sp as join, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until you finish the rd, sl st in sp between ch and 1st dc. (48dc)<br />
<br />
Rd 5: Ch 3, dc in same space as join, *dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat * to * until the end of the round and join with sl st. (60 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd 6: Ch3, dc in each sp to the end of the rd (do not dc twice in any sp), join with sl st. (60 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd 7: Ch 3, dc in same space as ch, *dc in next 4 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to the end of the rd, join with sl st. (72 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd 8: Ch 3, dc in same sp as ch, *dc in next 7 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to end of the rd, join with sl st. (81 dc)<br />
<br />
Rd 9: Ch 3, dc in same sp as chain, *dc in next 8 sp, 2 dc in next sp*, repeat to end of the rd, join with sl st. (90 dc)<br />
<br />
This is where I stopped increasing, if you want your bag to be bigger around you can continue adding rows with increases until you reach your desired size. Just continue to add one single dc between your 2 dc stitches.<br />
<br />
Rd 10-16: Ch 3, dc in each sp around, join to sp between ch and first dc with a sl st.<br />
<br />
We are now going to do some decrease rows to give our bag it's hobo shape. If you want a taller bag add more rows at this point with 1 dc per sp.<br />
<br />
Rd 17-19: ch3, *dc in next 15 sp, dc2tog in next sp*, repeat to the end of the rd and join with sl st. (these will not work out evenly but don't worry about it, it will be fine once felted)<br />
<br />
Rd 20: ch 3, dc in each sp around joining with sl st at the end of the rd. Finish off.<br />
<br />
Handle:<br />
<br />
Lay the bag flat and fold in half with your joins making up one of the folds. Fold in half again to find the center of the front and back and mark with a stitch marker. Your handles are going to start at 16 stitches wide so using your center sp count 8 spaces on either side of the marker and add markers to each of those spaces. You can now remove the center marker. Repeat on the back side.<br />
<br />
Row 1: Join in marked sp with a sl st, dc in each sp until you reach your other marker, turn (16 dc)<br />
<br />
Row 2: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to last 3 sp, dc2tog, dc, turn <br />
<br />
Rows 3-7: repeat row 2 (row 7 should be 6 dc wide), turn<br />
<br />
Rows 8-18(?): Ch 3, dc in each sp (6 dc)<br />
<br />
Repeat this process on the other side of the bag.<br />
<br />
If you want a longer handle repeat the last row until you reach your desired length remembering that you will have 30-40% shrinkage during felting. I stopped at row 18 because I wanted my handbag to be tight up under my arm.<br />
<br />
Once you have the desired length join the two sides of the handle with a row of sc on the back side of the handle. Trim both edges of the handle with a row of sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.<br />
<br />
How to Felt Your Bag:<br />
To felt your bag machine wash with warm water (warm wash and rinse), you can use detergent but do not add fabric softener. Tumble dry. My bag was perfect after doing this once but if you are not happy with the felting you can repeat again.<br />
<br />
Adding the button:<br />
After felting my bag was tight except for a gap where the joins were which is now the front of my bag, this meant I didn't need to add a buttonhole. You may need to cut a buttonhole in your bag if your joins were tighter than mine. I then added the button to the inside of the bag on the side opposite from my hole so when closed the button shows on the front of my bag.CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-61271538685099352011-06-17T10:55:00.000-05:002012-01-20T10:32:39.208-06:00The Diaper TrikeI love to make unique and creative gifts for holidays and other events. Since we're on a tight budget around here it's often a lot easier on the pocketbook as well!<br />
<br />
This is a diaper trike that I made for my cousin's baby shower a year or so ago. Hard to believe my godson is already almost a year old!!!! I found a lot of pictures of these trikes online but no directions so I reverse engineered this from a picture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXB6xBZ0Otr4ZTX4F69YZe9VR92eSI5loV3EUaL-kq0QCCxQ-zx91EMkGs350L7VVjxhu6jidS0YtSbNqMCScda5tWe_tphZMB1-ZY3Mbys5HT33auJBCk86wqu13e6OBNtnL1_yqMkXu/s1600/diaper+trike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXB6xBZ0Otr4ZTX4F69YZe9VR92eSI5loV3EUaL-kq0QCCxQ-zx91EMkGs350L7VVjxhu6jidS0YtSbNqMCScda5tWe_tphZMB1-ZY3Mbys5HT33auJBCk86wqu13e6OBNtnL1_yqMkXu/s320/diaper+trike.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I picked up all the items to make this at the dollar store and a large discount store. The only problem was that I didn't notice that the front ribbon had fallen down until AFTER I took my pictures. I did catch and fix it before the shower! <br />
<br />
What you need to create the diaper trike:<br />
<ul>
<li>one large package of size 1 diapers (better to have too many than not enough!)</li>
<li>3 large rubber bands (I used the rubber bands that come wrapped around my newspaper...free!)</li>
<li>empty paper towel or toilet paper roll (also free!)</li>
<li>2 receiving blankets</li>
<li>2 bibs (I like the velcro closure bibs)</li>
<li>1- 5oz. baby bottle</li>
<li>1 pair of newborn sized baby socks (I could only find a package of 3 pairs so the extras I put inside the wheels</li>
<li>2-3 yards thin ribbon </li>
<li>2-3 yards thick ribbon (1 inch thick looks nice and works well)</li>
<li>double sided tape, glue dots, hot glue, folded over scotch tape (whatever you have that will hold the ribbon together)</li>
</ul>
First, divide your diapers into 3 equal piles, if it doesn't divide evenly put the extras in the pile for the front tire since it's fine for it to be a bit larger but the back tires need to be equal sized.<br />
<br />
Start with your first stack of diapers and an empty paper towel or toilet paper roll. The roll will keep the center of your tire open. I curved each diaper around the roll one at a time until I had about half the diapers in my stack wrapped around the roll. Have a helper hold the diapers on the roll or hold it with your knees while you put a large rubber band around the outside. You can then add the rest of the diapers in a few at a time and adjust as needed. You want to use a rubber band and not any adhesive so that the diapers are still able to be used. It's tricky but stay patient and it will all work out, I promise! Remove the roll once you have all diapers secured. (if you have problems keeping the center open you can cut the tube so that is a little narrower than the diapers an leave it in the center of the tire.<br />
<br />
Follow the same process with your other two stacks of diapers. Use your wide ribbon and wrap around the diaper rolls to cover the ugly rubber bands. Secure the ribbon to itself using your adhesive, I used double a hot glue gun. Don't burn yourself....it's not worth it!<br />
<br />
Take one of your receiving blankets and roll it VERY tightly. Again, since I was by myself I used rubber bands on each end to keep it rolled tightly while I worked. Feed the rolled blanket through the center of all 3 tires in the configuration shown in the photo. Tie it tightly with a knot and then slide the knot so that it is hidden inside the back tires.<br />
<br />
Create a seat by fastening one of the bibs through the hole in the front tire with the bib part covering the space where the back two tires meet. Fasten the other bib facing the front with the velcro though the center of the tire to create a front fender.<br />
<br />
Take your other blanket and roll it as tightly as possible, if it is nice and tight it will make the handlebars stick out without any further support. Again, I used rubber bands to secure it, this time in the middle and at each end and left them there since they would be covered. Feed through the hole in the front wheel, the wheel will hide your middle rubber band. Place the bottle on top of the bib and towards the back of the front wheel to create a headlight. I used the thin ribbon to secure this to the trike by feeding through the center and tying with a bow. Pull the wrapped blanket up over the top of the bottle and tie tightly with your thin ribbon and tie another bow. If your blanket is nice and tight and you tie the ribbon tightly the ends of the blanket will create the handlebars. It took me 3 tries, so again, stay patient and keep trying!<br />
<br />
Cover the ends of the blankets (and your rubber bands) with a baby sock. You are done!<br />
<br />
Tips:<br />
<ul>
<li>This is hard to transport because it wants to shift. I didn't have a big enough box so I used a laundry basket in the car so it wouldn't move around too much.</li>
<li>Include a note on the trike or with your card letting the recipient know what size the diapers are (I had a duh moment when my cousin had to call me to find out)</li>
<li>Be creative...I wanted to put a stuffed monkey on the trike as a rider since that was the nursery theme but couldn't find one in my price range, a set of teething keys would be super cute hooked to the back of the handlebars.</li>
<li>Don't spend the $60+ dollars that these sell for...make your own for about $20.</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
</ul>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-313687233236804036.post-88540074294034109432011-06-17T10:13:00.000-05:002011-06-22T08:43:47.987-05:00Welcome & Treasure Chest CakeWelcome to my blog that I decided I must have at midnight last night, insomnia is good for something! I am looking forward to sharing with you my crafting successes and failures, I learn more from the failures sometimes! <br />
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I'm one of those people that needs to learn how to do everything so this may be a bit eclectic. I am an avid quilter and crocheter. I taught myself how to knit two days ago so that will be an adventure. I like to put my own spin on existing patterns and am hoping to share those and some tips with you!<br />
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First some successes....check out this birthday cake from my son's birthday party last year, I was so proud of it and he LOVED it! What's great is that if you don't frost well (and I don't) the "treasure" covers up a lot of mistakes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrB6HkLrfCa58i1kR9skHWByuAjDfli4jaY1zU3dT7aaw61D7aRXuYlogamnMY1wqVksFHjRDkHC8Pugj3Sp7U2PUC4iU5RQ9SD2oTLDk3SuKbjlzT-CuTkCU15JaifBwEKmK6gS0450vL/s1600/cake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrB6HkLrfCa58i1kR9skHWByuAjDfli4jaY1zU3dT7aaw61D7aRXuYlogamnMY1wqVksFHjRDkHC8Pugj3Sp7U2PUC4iU5RQ9SD2oTLDk3SuKbjlzT-CuTkCU15JaifBwEKmK6gS0450vL/s320/cake.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To Make This Treasure Chest Cake you need:</div><ul><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">9x13 cake in your favorite flavor (works best if you use a mix that is not super moist as a very moist cake falls apart)</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">chocolate frosting (I used 3 packages of Jiffy brand chocolate frosting mix)</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">toothpicks</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">assorted gold and silver wrapped candies (I used Rolos, Hershey's kisses, and gold chocolate coins)</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">candy necklaces and or bracelets, ring pops</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">rock candy</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">red fruit by the foot</div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">M&M's </div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">brown sugar and raw cane sugar (if you can find it)</div></li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Take your cooked and cooled cake and cut a 2 inch section out of the middle giving you 3 pieces (two large ends and the 2 inch strip). Set your strip to the side. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Place one of your large pieces on your cake tray (I used foil covered cardboard, cheap and looks good too). Frost the piece you just placed on the tray on the top and sides. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Using a sharp knife or a long piece of waxed floss (works great and is very kid safe) slice your two inch strip on the diagonal, this is going to make a wedge to hold your "lid" open. Lay your first wedge along the back of your frosted first piece with the point facing the back and the taller side of your wedge facing the front, Take your second wedge and lay it directly in front of the other in the same manner. Frost the tops of your wedges and the front edge to act as glue for the candy and lid.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now here is my trick that sets this apart from other directions out there for the treasure chest cake. Take another piece of foil wrapped cardboard the size same size as the "lid". Put your lid on this and then frost the top and sides of the cake. Without the cardboard it's an absolute bear to put this together and it allows you to take the cake apart easier for slicing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Place your lid on top of your wedges, secure in the back with toothpicks as much as needed, I made this a day ahead so I used 6-8 toothpicks (don't forget to remove them when you are ready to cut the cake!). If you have an extra set of hands have them support the lid while you do this. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once your lid is in place frost over the exposed foil on the bottom and sides of the lid. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now the fun part, decorate away. The gold coins can be stood on end to help support the front of the lid so I recommend adding these first. After that adding the treasure is just a matter of sticking the rest of the foil wrapped candy, jewelery, and rock candy wherever you think looks good. I set a few to the side to have spilling onto the sand.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Take your fruit by the foot and lay down the lid to make straps. Use the M&M's to create studded nail covers on either side of the fruit by the foot. Touch up the frosting and make sure any mistakes are covered. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, we've made it to the sand. Smear whatever frosting you have left on the top of your tray around the decorated cake. Take your brown sugar and raw sugar and mix it together (I like the raw sugar because it gives it a more authentic looking texture). Sprinkle over the frosting around the cake carefully, try not to get too much on the cake itself. I did pile some up on one side of the cake where I accidentally took a chunk of cake out with my frosting knife (oops!). Add your leftover coins and chill until you are ready to party.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is small cake (we fed 8 guests with it) so if you are having a lot of guests I would recommend having a plain frosted chocolate cake and some extra treasure handy and hidden to serve guests.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>CraftyKatehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15497703193167076827noreply@blogger.com0